Charred lamb leg, creamy skordalia and herb salad
Let’s talk skordalia – part sauce, part dip, and all kinds of delicious. The name comes from the Greek word skordo (σκόρδο), meaning garlic, which tells you everything you need to know… if you don’t like garlic, trust us when we tell you this isn’t for you so just jog on. Creamy, rich and punchy, it blends garlic mulched into a starchy base, olive oil, and vinegar or lemon juice. Sometimes, you'll find versions that incorporate ground nuts like almonds or walnuts, which add extra richness and texture. This latter version is popular in the Peloponnese and it’s heftier than the other kinds.
Garlic has been beloved in Greece since ancient times for its supposed medicinal powers and its knack for warding off the evil eye – we find it fends off most people, given the garlic breath aftermath. In Greece, skordalia is used as a versatile condiment that accompanies all sorts of dishes, often served with fried fish, boiled vegetables, beetroot, or even spread over bread, and we are SO HERE for a carb-on-carb combo. A staple at Greek tavernas, skordalia often features on March 25th, Greece’s Independence Day, when it’s traditionally served with fried cod. We’ve given ours a bit of a remix, whisking in egg yolks to make it creamier, smoother, and more spoonable, with a texture somewhere between a rich potato mash and mayo. It’s not exactly traditional (sorry Greece), but it is good.
Quick tip: we call for a potato ricer here. This is one of those tools you might not use daily (unless you’re a compulsive gnocchi-maker), but when you need one, you really need one. It pushes cooked potatoes through tiny holes for a smooth, lump-free texture – don’t think about using a food processor in this scenario as it will turn the potato gluey. You could push the potato through a large sieve instead, using the pack of a large metal spoon or a dough scraper but honestly, we don’t think life has to be quite that hard. Go get a potato ricer!
Paired with juicy, char-grilled lamb and a zesty herb salad, this skordalia is the ultimate sidekick. Any leftovers will be fabulous the next day too, with whatever you fancy serving it with. Even toast for breakfast.
SERVES 4
1.7kg rolled, boneless lamb leg, at room temperature
olive oil, for brushing
Creamy skordalia
500g all-purpose potatoes (about 3), peeled and chopped
8 garlic cloves, chopped
250ml (1 cup) extra virgin olive oil
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
3 tbsp red wine vinegar, or to taste
Herb salad
large handful each of parsley, dill, oregano, and mint lemon juice, to taste
extra virgin olive oil, to taste
Remove the string on the lamb leg, then open the lamb and lay it flat on a board, fat side down. Using a sharp knife, remove the shank bone, leaving as much meat attached to the leg as possible. Use a sharp knife to butterfly out any really thick parts of the leg; you basically hold your knife at a 45°angle, and slice it a few cm deep, then open out the cut part. Ideally, you want the leg to be an even thickness so it cooks at the same rate. Leave the lamb so it comes to room temperature while you make the skordalia.
For the creamy skordalia, cook the potato in boiling salted water until tender, then drain really well. Using a potato ricer, rice the potato; you can mash it but the texture won't be as smooth. Combine the garlic and oil in a food processor or blender, then process until smooth. Combine the egg yolks and vinegar in a large bowl and whisk to combine well. Whisking constantly, very slowly add the oil mixture until a thick, emulsified mixture forms; use a stick blender to make this easier and faster, if you like. Mix in the potato, adding a little at a time and using a wooden spoon – stir in a little hot water as needed to thin the mixture. When all the potato is incorporated and the texture is right (you want a thick, creamy consistency), taste, then season with salt and pepper and a little extra vinegar if you want it a bit sharper.
For the lamb, heat a chargrill plate or barbecue to medium-high heat. Remove any excess fat from the lamb, brush it lightly with olive oil then season well with salt. Cook, fat side down, for 15 minutes, then turn and cook for another 15 minutes or until nearly cooked but still pink in the middle (test using a metal skewer or a digital thermometer. The internal temperature should be 65°C for medium-rare and remember the lamb will keep cooking a little as it rests).
Once the lamb is cooked, cover it loosely with foil, then let it rest for 10-15 minutes. While the lamb rests, toss all the herbs together in a bowl. Dress with lemon juice, a drizzle of olive oil, and salt and pepper to taste.
Spread the skordalia onto a serving platter, cut the lamb into large chunks or thick slices, dress with the herbs and serve.
