Hangzhou
By Leanne Kitchen
For the China-wary, Hangzhou, a mere 45-minute fast train ride from Shanghai, is the perfect place to go – it’s clean, spacious, and within cooee of pretty green spaces. It’s been a tourist attraction since the Tang dynasty (618–907), although arguably, with a population now of over 9 million, it’s not quite as peaceful as it was in Marco Polo’s day. Nestled on the gorgeous West Lake (西湖) and surrounded by bucolic hills, lush forests, and tea plantations, Hangzhou really is dreamy. The food and the legendary longjing (龙井) tea are reason enough to come, if vistas of postcard-perfect beauty alone don’t move you. Here’s my take on Hangzhou's culinary and cultural attractions, with updates of old favourites and some fresh finds.
Snacks and Street Food
In recent years, the city (along with other places in China) has relaxed restrictions on street-side businesses to try and boost the economy. The "supervise, not ban" approach by the government means you'll spot licensed street food vendors at designated spots and times. Famous local snacks include sou yi bing (酥一饼), sweet, conical-shaped pastries; ou fen tang (藕粉汤), a sweet soup made using nutritionally rich West Lake lotus root starch; tu you (兔头), steamed rabbit heads, strictly for the adventurous, and he ye fan (荷叶饭), glutinous rice with salted egg, mushrooms, and a little pork, all steamed in a lotus leaf. The legendarily odiferous chou doufu (臭豆腐), or fermented tofu, might look grey and unappetising, but if you get a chance to try it, you’ll be surprised by how delicious it can be. You’ll also see Jinhua ham (金华火腿), a special dry-cured ham from nearby Jinhua, and you shouldn’t leave without snacking on ‘victory’ rice cakes (ding sheng gao 鼎升糕), light, fluffy rice-based cakes that are regularly tinted pink.
As for iconic, casual eateries, you can’t go past Kui Yuan Guan (垄元馆) (154 Jiefang Rd), with over 150 years under their belt. Their eel-based soup noodles and pian’er chuan (片儿川) – a delightful mix of pork, bamboo shoots, and preserved veggies – remain crowd-pleasers on the ground floor, while upstairs they serve classic dishes from around the broader Zhejiang region.
Lakeside Zhi Wei Guan (知味观) (83 Renhe Rd), has been a stalwart since 1913. Their ground-level canteen offers a smorgasbord of steamed buns, dumplings, and mao er duo (猫耳朵), or 'cat’s ear' noodles, with street-side takeout for grabbing some local cakes and snacks. Upstairs? Expect Hangzhou highlights like West Lake Vinegar Fish (西湖醋鱼), Dragon Well Tea Shrimp (龙井虾仁), and a classic Beggar’s Chicken (叫花鸡).
Bao Zhong Bao Shi Fu (包中包食府) (224 Qinghai St) gets incredibly crowded at peak times, so it pays to go early. You might not love their signature pork kidneys in sweet-sour sauce, but there are plenty of other home-style Hangzhou offerings if you’re offal-averse. Ditto the queuing and crowding at Fu Yuan Ju (富源居) (35 Hefang St), but that’s because locals adore the nostalgic, rustic dishes – the freshwater fish game is strong here.
While Guangfu Lu Food Street near No. 88 Hefang St was once a bustling hub for street eats, the current status of such markets can vary due to evolving regulations. It's always an adventure to explore and see what's sizzling!
Hangzhou Cuisine and What to Eat
Hangzhou’s food is all about elegance and harmony, with flavours that are light, fresh, and never overpowering. Often referred to as the “Home of Fish and Rice,” the cuisine of the city and its general surrounds is based on the bounty of rivers, lakes, and fertile farmlands. Think freshwater fish, bamboo shoots, aquatic vegetables, tender greens, and silky tofu – simple ingredients transformed into dishes that sing with balance and refinement.
Key to Hangzhou cooking is its delicate use of seasoning – a splash of Shaoxing wine (绍兴酒), a touch of soy sauce, and just enough sugar to enhance natural flavours. It’s the kind of food that feels comforting yet sophisticated, like a quiet hug for your taste buds.
Essential Dishes Not to Miss
Dong po rou (东坡肉) – Meltingly tender braised pork belly, slow-cooked in sweet soy.
West Lake Vinegar Fish (西湖醋鱼) – Fresh grass carp, steamed and doused in a thick, tangy, caramelised vinegar sauce.
Dragon Well Shrimp (龙井虾仁) – Delicate river prawns stir-fried with Hangzhou’s famous Dragon Well green tea leaves.
Beggar’s Chicken (叫花鸡) – Whole chicken stuffed, wrapped in lotus leaves, and baked in clay for hours.
Lotus Root Stuffed with Sticky Rice (糯米藕) – Sweet and floral, simmered in syrup until perfectly gooey.
Cat’s Ear Noodles (猫耳朵) – Orecchiette-like noodles in a savoury broth flavoured with chicken, ham, dried scallops, mushrooms, and bamboo.
Stewed Bamboo Shoots (糟烩鞭笋) – Until you eat bamboo shoots fresh and in season, you honestly can’t believe how delicious they are. This dish is tender and fragrant with a type of rice wine.
Dining Out
Nestled amidst serene tea plantations, Longjing Manor (龙井庄园) (399 Longjing Rd) offers an exclusive dining experience with just eight private rooms overlooking lush gardens. Chef-owner Dai Jianjun, a pioneer in China's Slow Food movement, crafts daily menus from locally sourced, organic produce, much of it from his own 20-acre farm. Expect dishes like Mum’s Pork and Fish Swimming in the West Lake, all served with a side of tranquility. Also expect to have to secure a table well in advance!
Right by the dreamy West Lake, Jin Sha (锦沙) at the Four Seasons (四季酒店) (5 Lingyin Rd) still makes waves. Shanghainese head chef Wang Yong gives classic dishes like hong shao (红烧) – red-cooked pork belly a modern twist—he adds braised abalone and sweet soy for that extra indulgence. This place is a splurge, but the innovative cooking and gorgeous surrounds make it totally worth it. In 2017, Chef Wang was crowned the Chinese Chef Of The Year by GQ magazine.
Another great lakeside dining option is venerable Lou Wai Lou (楼外楼) (30 Gushan Rd). Since 1848, they’ve been turning out textbook renditions of local specialities like West Lake Vinegar Fish; here, you get the choice of grass carp or marble goby, renowned locally for its sweet, tender flesh. The fact that it’s hard to catch or farm makes it a luxury ingredient often reserved for special banquets.
The Aman resort’s Steam House (蒸汽屋) is more casual than you might expect from (arguably) the world’s finest 5-star chain. Decked out like a rustic village hall, the food is simple, honest, and top-notch, crafted around the best seasonal ingredients. The property is in an idyllic setting in the restored old Fayun village in the Lingyin scenic area, very near the famous Faxi Temple.
Hangzhou’s favourite mid-range eatery is Grandma’s Kitchen (外婆家), with 20-plus outlets across town. The handiest is at 2/F, 2 Hubon Rd, and from the encyclopaedic menu (it’s pictorial and with English), the signature Longjing tea-scented chicken (龙井茶鸡) is a must-eat. Chopstick-tender, the bird is soaked in tea, wrapped in paper, then steam-roasted in a clay pot. Yum!
Sights and Diversions
West Lake (西湖) remains the heart and soul of Hangzhou, with its cloud-kissed hills, water-side pavilions, and various historic sites. A UNESCO World Heritage site since 2011, it's a must-visit, especially in spring when peach blossoms paint the town pink. The Su Causeway (苏堤), stretching nearly 3 km with its arched bridges, offers a scenic stroll. For a quieter escape, the Yang Gong Causeway (杨公堤) on the western shores provides a serene retreat. These places become quickly congested, so to enjoy the serenity, be sure to get up early. Maybe one of the prettiest corners is Flower Harbour (花港), encompassing walkways, old villas, a spectacular carp pond, and a peony garden.
Beyond the lake, the Yunqi Bamboo Path (云栖竹径) offers a peaceful walk through ancient bamboo groves, showcasing some of Hangzhou's oldest trees. As dusk settles, the Chenghuang Pavilion (城隍阁), a reconstruction of the old City God Temple, provides panoramic views of the city and lake. Sipping Hangzhou's finest tea on its balcony as the sun sets is pure magic.
When you’ve had enough of the lake, grab a ride out to the Yunqi Bamboo Path, a gorgeous walkway cutting through some of the oldest trees in the area.
After a day of exploration, treat your feet to a 90-minute reflexology session at Sannana Foot Massage (三那足疗) (46 Kaiyuan Rd). Their skilled therapists will have you floating on air in no time.
Tea Ceremony
If you only master two words of Mandarin, make them longjing cha (龙井茶). ('Please' and 'thank you' are handy too!)
Longjing, or Dragon Well, is China's most prized green tea, and the genuine commodity is produced in a small area near Hangzhou. Premium Longjing can fetch thousands of dollars per kilo. Lingering over endless cups is a quintessential Hangzhou rite, and the town boasts hundreds of teahouses.
For a refined experience, He Cha Guan Teahouse (和茶馆) (15 Fayun Ln), inside the Aman resort in Fayun Village, is a lovely choice. It's traditionally decorated, serves mostly organic food, and is sited in a peaceful locale. Owner and Tea Master Pang Ying is celebrated for her tea ceremony skills and her ability to tease the full flavour and fragrance from her leaves.
On the lakes' northeast, Hupanju Teahouse (湖畔居茶馆) (1 Shentang Scenic Area) is one of Hangzhou's most famous for tea quality, especially their Shi Feng Longjing (十峰龙井). With a hefty minimum charge, it's not the cheapest, but the views over the lake are unparalleled.
Not far from the centre of town are a handful of picturesque tea villages, of which the nicest is Meijiawu (梅家坞). Set in a valley surrounded by hills neatly planted with rows of tea bushes, locals are accustomed to visitors wandering around their plantations, watching the manual harvest. Pickers take only tiny terminal buds, with just a few leaves attached. In town, workers sort, dry, and sift the fragile leaves and roast them in large woks, using hands to apply gentle pressure and keep them moving. There are teahouses and casual, family-run restaurants along the main street, typically serving simple, home-style fare.
Let’s go traveling…
