The Soup Noodles of Ho Chi Minh City
You’re in HCMC (Sài Gòn) and the first thing you want to eat is probably a fragrant bowl of phở. Absolutely fair enough. But famous phở is just one soup noodle dish you can expect in Ho Chi Minh City – there are plenty more.
When you get there, as alluring as endless bowls of the superlative phở are, leave time and stomach capacity to explore the complex world of HCMC's other soup noodle offerings. Here are 8 of our faves.
MÌ QUẢNG
ORIGINS: Quảng Nam province, in central Vietnam.
NOODLES: The wide, flat rice noodles are typically dyed a golden-yellow with turmeric, which adds colour and imparts a subtle, earthy note. The use of turmeric is a nod to the historical trade routes that passed through this region.
BROTH: A rich pork bone broth seasoned with fish sauce, black pepper, shallots and garlic. It’s traditionally poured over the noodles at the table, keeping the dish fresh and fragrant. Unlike other Vietnamese noodle soups, this dish isn’t about copious soupy broth, but rather a small ladle of richly concentrated broth that lightly coats the noodles. It’s a fascinating mix of a soup and a dry noodle dish, depending on the cook’s preference or the diner’s request.
MEATY BITS: Usually served with prawns and pork, but variations include beef, chicken, or fish.
ADD ONS: Crunchy bánh tráng (sesame rice crackers), fried shallots, and heaps of fresh herbs like cilantro, mint, and shredded banana blossom. It's a dish that’s often served for family gatherings or special occasions in central Vietnam and the act of serving mì quảng at the table—pouring the broth over the noodles just before eating— is a bit interactive. Eating it is a ritual; often, with diners crumbling the crispy rice crackers into their bowl to create a personal crunch-to-noodle ratio.
WHERE TO EAT:
Mì Quảng Mỹ Sơn, 7 Kỳ Đồng, P. 9, Quận 3, open 6am-10pm, daily. Thís is a franchise of restaurants with several locations though the city.
Mì Quảng Sâm, 8 Ca Văn Thỉnh, Phường 11, Tân Bình, open 6 am–1 pm and 3–9 pm dailyMake it stand out
BÚN CÁ CHÂU ĐỐC
ORIGINS: This dish originates from Châu Đốc, a town in the southern province of An Giang with strong Cambodian influences. Bún cá reflects the area’s cross-cultural culinary heritage, plus its abundance of freshwater fish from the Mekong.
NOODLES: Like many other Vietnamese noodle soups, bún cá uses light, delicate fresh rice vermicelli (bún), providing the perfect base for absorbing the broth without overpowering other ingredients.
BROTH: The broth is where bún cá shines. Fish is simmered with turmeric, which gives a golden hue and earthy undertones. What sets this dish apart, though, is the inclusion of cu ngải, or finger root. Related to ginger and turmeric but not as strong, it helps dispel fishy aromas and imparts a slightly floral, herbaceous flavour. The broth is light yet deeply flavoursome, with a perfect balance of savoury and subtle sweetness from the fish.
MEATY BITS: Bún cá centers around fish, often snakehead fish, caught in the rivers around Châu Đốc. There are endless regional spins, but a typical bowl includes fish, prawn, and slices of pork. Some versions also include squid or fish cake (chả cá), adding to the variety of textures and flavours.
ADD-ONS: Piles of blanched and raw vegetables, such as banana flower and morning glory. You also find sesbania flower, a species in the pea family with a vibrant yellow colour and a slightly herbal aftertaste. You only find this used as a garnish in this dish.
WHERE TO EAT:
Bún cá lóc Châu Đốc, 124 Đ. Võ Thị Sáu, Phường 8, Quận 3, open 6am-8pm, daily
Bún cá lóc Phan Lê, 159 Đ. Cao Thắng, Tổ 16 Khu phố 2, Quận 10, open 7am-10pm, daily. They serve a version of the soup with the fish head.
BÚN BÒ HUẾ
ORIGINS: From the ancient imperial city of Huế in central Vietnam, where unique dishes often strike a balance between fiery and sweet notes.
BROTH: Grunty, complex, and beefy. Lemongrass predominates, lending a bright citrus note that cuts through the richness of the meat, with shrimp paste deepening the umami profile. Simmered over hours to extract maximum flavour, the broth skips between savoury, sweet and spicy, and the flavour is really distinctive.
NOODLES: Round, thick rice noodles, with a satisfyingly chewy texture. Unlike the flatter phở noodles, they’re twirlable and have a way heartier bite. Their thickness ensures they soak up just enough flavour without getting soggy.
MEATY BITS: The bowl brims with beef shank, oxtail and pork knuckle, which have a satisfying gelatinous texture. All these meats are a nod to the dish's royal origins, where using a variety of cuts was a sign of luxury. For the adventurous, there’s also huyết heo—cubes of congealed pig’s blood, prized for its smooth texture and ability to soak up broth.
ADD ONS: Lime wedges, green onion, herbs, banana blossom, bean sprouts.
WHERE TO EAT:
Bún Bò Huế Chú Há, 300 Võ Văn Tần, Quận 3, open 6am-10pm, daily
Bún Bò Huế Nam Giao, 242 Đề Thám, Phường Phạm Ngũ Lão, Quận 1, open 6am-11pm, daily
BÚN RIÊU
ORIGINS: From the Mekong Delta.
NOODLES: Fresh rice vermicelli (bún) form the base, providing a delicate texture that contrasts with the hearty broth and meat.
BROTH: Light but packed with intensity, this soup's signature tartness comes from tamarind and plenty of fresh tomatoes, giving it a distinctive reddish hue. The broth is enriched with a paste made from paddy crabs, creating a slightly briny flavour. Some variations also incorporate annatto oil and chili to turn the broth a rusty red colour.
MEATY BITS: Traditionally, you'll find a mix of crabmeat, minced pork, and chunks of fried tofu in the broth. Fish-crab cakes are also common, as are cubes of congealed pig's blood. Variations include bún riêu tôm thịt (shrimp and beef) and bún riêu ốc (snail).
ADD ONS: The dish is finished with plenty of fresh herbs, water spinach (rau muống), shredded banana blossom, and bean sprouts.
WHERE TO EAT
Bún Riêu Nguyễn Cảnh Chân - Located at 26/51 Nguyễn Cảnh Chân, P. Cầu Kho, Quận 1, open 10am - 6:30pm, daily.
Bún Riêu Nhà - Located at 19E Kỳ Đồng, P. 9, Quận 1, open 9am – 7:00pm daily.
BÚN MĂM
ORIGINS: From the Mekong Delta – the dish reflects the deep connection between the local diet and the Mekong river. A main flavouring is a pungent, fermented fish paste called mắm tôm. Overall the soup is a perfect balance of the region’s salty, sweet, and savoury flavours.
BROTH: The broth is where bún mắm really stands out. It’s made by simmering pork and fish bones with aromatics like lemongrass, but the star is the mắm tôm. It infuses the soup with a deep, funky umami flavor that’s unique to the Mekong Delta and it's an acquired taste for some. The broth is briny and savoury with a slight sweetness to balance the intensity of the fish paste, giving a robust, earthy depth.
NOODLES: Fresh rice vermicelli (bún) serve as the base, absorbing the broth without becoming too soft. Their light, airy texture helps balance the rich, intense flavours in the broth.
MEATY BITS: Bún mắm is packed with prawns, squid, and fish, with slices of pork (often belly) adding another layer of richness. Eggplant helps soak up the broth. The dish can vary from cook to cook, but these seafood and meat components are typical.
ADD ONS: A veritable jungle of fresh herbs and greens accompanies the dish. Banana blossom adds crunch and a slightly astringent taste, while waterlily stems (hoa súng) and water spinach (rau muống) contribute a satisfying crispness. Thai basil adds a peppery, licorice-like note, and fish mint (diếp cá), with its strong, tangy and downright unusual flavour, is refreshing. The herbs balance the soup’s essential pungency with freshness.
WHERE TO EAT:
Quan Bún Mắm, 22 Phan Bội Châu, Quận 1, open 6am-7pm, daily
Bún Mắm Cô Thủy, 63 Cô Giang, Quận 1, open 7am-9pm, daily
BÁNH CANH CUA
ORIGINS: Southern Vietnam, with roots in the coastal regions where fresh seafood, particularly crab, is abundant.
NOODLES: Thick, round, soft, and chewy, the noodles are made from tapioca flour which gives them a unique, slightly slippery and stretchy texture. The term 'bánh canh' translates to 'soup cake,' a nod to how hearty the noodle are; they're reminiscent of Japanese udon but have a much more elastic bite.
BROTH: Luxurious, pork-based, and laden with the sweet richness of crab. The broth is often coloured orange-red, thanks to annatto oil, and it’s thickened naturally by the starch in the noodles. The consistency is a little gravy-like and ensures the broth clings to each strand. The addition of fish sauce and other seasonings creates a balance of umami, sweetness, and a hint of brininess.
MEATY BITS: The dish is generously loaded with crabmeat, shrimp, pork slices, and quail eggs. Variations exist across regions: some might feature crab-fish balls, pork hocks (in bánh canh giò heo), or slices of fish cake (in bánh canh chả cá). In the southern version, crabmeat is a hallmark, but each vendor may customise the combination of toppings differently.
ADD ONS: Garnished with a sprinkle of black pepper and fresh green onions, it’s common to squeeze lime, stir in chilli paste, and occasionally add fried dough sticks (giò cháo quẩy) to soak up the savoury broth. These small additions create an interplay of tangy, spicy, and rich flavours, making each bite dynamic.
WHERE TO EAT:
Bánh Canh Cua, 87 Trần Khắc Chân, P. Tân Định, Quận 1, open 2.30pm-8.30pm, daily
Dung Bánh Canh Cua, 10/291 Võ Văn Tân, Quận 3, open 7am-7pm, Mon-Sat and 7am-11.30am, Sun
HỦ TIẾU NAM VANG
ORIGINS: ‘Nam Vang' means 'Phnom Penh' the capital of Cambodia, where this dish had its roots. Over time it was adapted to suit Vietnamese tastes.
NOODLES: Three types can be used; either rehydrated, dried tapioca noodles, which are a little sticky and chewy and are called Hủ Tiếu noodles, rice noodles, or yellow wheat noodles.
BROTH: What makes Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang unique is the broth, which combines the sweetness of pork bones with the umami depth of dried shrimp. In Vietnam, diners choose whether to have their Hủ Tiếu served with broth (nước) or dry (khô). The dry version is typically served with the broth on the side, which gives the diner control over how much broth to add, making the dish quite customisable.
MEATY BITS: numerous cuts of pork with endless variations and additions: hủ tiếu cá gà (fish and chicken); hủ tiếu Mỹ Tho (pork liver, calamari, prawns and pork mince); hủ tiếu mì cật (with pork kidney); hủ tiếu bò kho (with beef stew fragrant with lemongrass, cinnamon and basil). Prawns and fish balls are often included.
ADD ONS: Fried garlic and shallots add a crispy bite, while Thai basil and fresh herbs provide a vibrant, aromatic lift to the dish. Quail eggs, often served whole, offer a delicate creaminess that pairs beautifully with the savoury broth.
WHERE TO EAT:
Hủ Tiếu Nam Vang Nhân Quán, 488 Nguyễn Thị Minh Khai, Quận 1, open 5am-11pm, daily
Hủ tiếu Mỹ Tho Thanh Xuân, 62 Đ. Tôn Thất Thiệp, Bến Nghé, Quận 1, open 6am-1.30pm
BÚN MỌC
ORIGINS: Northern Vietnam, particularly Hanoi.
BROTH: This dish revolves around a clear pork-based broth that's often infused with shiitake mushrooms, which give a subtle umami undertone without overpowering the natural sweetness of the pork. The broth is lighter than many southern Vietnamese noodle soups, focusing on clarity and purity of flavour.
NOODLES: Fresh rice vermicelli (bún).
MEATY BITS: A whole variety of pork-based additions. Pork balls (mọc) are the signature element—made from minced pork seasoned with black pepper and traditionally wrapped in a casing or rolled by hand. With pork ribs, sausages, and slices of cooked pork with skin, you get a whole pile of porky textures and tastes. If you ask for đầy đủ (‘a bit of everything’), your bowl will be crammed with northern Vietnamese charcuterie.
ADD ONS: A mix of fresh and raw ingredients to compliment the rich pork; pepper, coriander, fried shallots, shredded raw vegetables and Thai basil are typical. You add chilli paste and mắm tôm (fermented fish paste) to taste.
WHERE TO EAT:
Bún Mọc Thanh Mai, 52 Nguyễn An Ninh, Quận 1, open 5am-2pm, daily
Bún Mọc Mày, 14 Đường Số 31, P. 4, Quận 4, open 6am-11pm and 4pm-10pm, daily
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