Mutabbal hamwi: Syrian layered aubergine dip
“This recipe came from our neighbour Mona, who grew up in Hama in Syria, her childhood home built along the river. A wonderful cook, she would make this layered dish whenever she came to one of our gatherings. It has lived on in our spreads ever since.” - Karima Hazim Chatila & Siline Tabbouch
For the mutabbal
4 medium-sized aubergines (eggplants)
3 garlic cloves
120ml (½ cup) tahini
juice of 1 lemon
1 heaped tbsp Greek yogurt
For the topping
2 heaped tbsp ghee
50g (¹⁄3 cup) pine nuts
250g lamb backstrap or lamb shoulder or tenderloin, finely diced
1 tbsp tomato purée (paste)
½ tsp Sabaa Bharat (see below)
a pinch of ground black pepper
2 tomatoes, finely chopped
1 tsp Aleppo chilli
½ pomegranate, deseeded
For the Sabaa Bharat
Makes about 150g
2 tbsp black peppercorns
3 tbsp cumin seeds
3 tsp coriander seeds
3 tsp grated nutmeg
1 tsp cloves
1 cinnamon stick
3 tsp allspice (pimento) berries
Note: This recipe is part of a broader feast in Sofra that’s designed to serve about ten.
You will need an exposed flame for this recipe to char the skin and build the smoky flavour; this can be done over a barbecue or on a gas stove. Alternatively, you can use an oven on a high heat, 220˚C, for about 45 minutes. You will achieve the texture but not the smoky flavour.
Wash the aubergines and, using a sharp knife, poke all over. Place over a flame until the skin is charred and flaking off, turning them regularly. Repeat with all the aubergines, then place in a colander over a bowl to cool slightly before peeling.
Place the aubergines under cold running water, hold the stalk and peel off the skin. Take care not to remove too much flesh with the skin. Remove the tops with a knife and leave the peeled aubergines to strain further in the colander while you prepare the rest of the dish.
To make the mutabbal (smoky aubergine dip) crush the garlic with some salt in a mixing bowl and add the tahini and lemon juice, then begin to incorporate with a spoon. Add the yogurt and combine until you have reached a smooth, creamy paste. Taste for salt and lemon. Add the aubergine flesh and, using a pestle, beat into the tahini mixture until you have a smooth but textured dip. Set aside.
To make the topping, in a frying pan (skillet), melt half of the ghee, add the pine nuts and fry until golden brown, remove from the heat and set aside in a separate bowl.
Add the diced lamb to the same frying pan (skillet) and cook until caramelized and any moisture has evaporated. Add the remaining tablespoon of ghee, and allow it to sizzle before adding the tomato purée, bharat, black pepper, Aleppo chilli and finally the tomatoes. Let them cook and combine together for a few minutes. Toss in three-quarters of the pine nuts and set aside.
To serve, place the aubergine dip on a serving dish and spread with the back of a spoon. Flatten the middle, put the meat and sauce on top and spread evenly. Garnish with the remaining pine nuts and pomegranate seeds.
Sabaa Bharat - Seven-spice Bharat
This is the signature scent of Lebanese cooking, a classic spice blend consisting of seven spices. Ratios often vary from each region and generally each family will have their own recipe.
If using whole spices, grind them in a spice grinder or with a pestle and mortar to create a smooth powder. You may have to sift out any chunky pieces through a fine sieve. If using ground spices, place them in a bowl and combine well. Stored in an airtight glass jar, they will last for several months.
This is an edited extract from Sofra by Karima Hazim Chatila & Siline Tabbouch, RRP $50. Published by Hardie Grant Books. 📷 Luisa Brimble
