Rumi, Food of a Middle Eastern Appearance
Murdoch Books RRP $45. Photography by Armelle Habib.
By Joseph Abboud
Rumi is a legendary Melbourne restaurant that opened in 2006. Still going strong, its longevity is a testament both to owner Joseph Abboud’s easy charm as a host and to his brilliant Middle Eastern-esque fare. “Food of a Middle Eastern Appearance” is the subtitle of his first ever cookbook, and it’s a jokey side-swipe at the way Australia’s Muslim population was profiled (and vilified) in the years after the September 11th attacks, around the time he opened Rumi. “I am of Middle Eastern appearance. As is my food” he proudly states in the book’s intro and amen to that, we say. We love a challenge to fear and prejudice. The book is as much a celebration of Rumi, named after the famous 13th poet-philosopher and Sufi mystic, as it is a collection of recipes. It’s a lovely homage to what is now a Melbourne restaurant institution.
Abboud’s food is pretty darned fabulous. And his text is full of life and good humour, with an egalitarian ethos running through everything. Recipes are approachable, not elitist, he doesn’t make claims around ‘authenticity’ and nor does he slavishly stick to his own Lebanese roots. In the book he explains how travels through the Middle East and trips to Melbourne’s Persian, Turkish and other food stores have fuelled his sense of culinary adventure, leading to a real line-blurring among various cuisines. So there’s a ‘brandade’ using fish, tartaroor, toum and sumac, a broccoli tabbouleh, and four seasonal spins on fattoush, including a fresh, green spring version using broad beans, asparagus and green almonds. There’s a recipe in the dessert chapter for Turka Mi Su, a Lebanese coffee and cardamom-infused version of the classic tiramisu, plus a chocolate version of the Lebanese milk pudding called muhallabieh. Cold and hot yoghurt soups, different toppings for hummus, fabulous salad and vegetable recipes, and lovely meaty (and fishy) mains designed to platter-up and serve family-style… the vibe is of recipes that are simple to make, no-fuss to serve, and full of zingy flavours. According to the blurb on the book’s back cover, Abboud was wary of sharing the 60 recipes in this book, not because he wanted to keep them secret, but because he was worried they’d be perceived as overly simple. Case in point, the Turkish Delight Marie Biscuit Sandwiches in the dessert section, which only require two purchased ingredients; the Turkish delight and the biscuits. Genius. They look scrumptious. We’d serve those. We love their simplicity. Recipes for crudites or The Breakfast Spread are really just detailed laundry lists of what to assemble, with a few cross references to easy sub-recipes in the book for things like labne (strained yoghurt).
Overall this is a relatively modest book, with a soft cover and a tight recipe offering, but we really believe Rumi deserves a place in your cookbook collection. It’s been nicely designed (we expect nothing less from Murdoch Books!), the photography is lovely, and it’s a really practical shape and size for kitchen use. Our only request? Joseph Abboud… please, please write a Volume 2 soon!
