Cupboard Confidential: Jessabel Granada - Nanam Restaurant
At Auckland restaurant Nanam, head chef and owner Jess Granada brings Filipino flavours to life with her modern twists on traditional dishes. Recently she spoke to us about what’s in her home pantry, and what she misses the most about home.
1. If you had to describe your native cuisine in three words, what would they be and why?
Bold, comforting and flavorful.
Filipino food uses unapologetically bold flavours, combining sweet, sour, and savoury elements. It’s also comforting because many dishes, like adobo or sinigang, evoke nostalgia and warmth. Lastly, it’s flavourful, reflecting centuries of cultural influence through layers of taste.
2. What ingredients are must-have in your kitchen – the ones you can’t live without – and how do they show up in your cooking?
Soy sauce, vinegar, garlic, and calamansi.
These are essential for many Filipino dishes. Soy sauce and vinegar create the base for our iconic adobo, while garlic is in almost everything, from fried rice to sauces. Calamansi, a small citrus fruit, adds a unique tang to marinades and dipping sauces.
3. What’s one thing people always seem to get wrong about food from the Philippines that drives you a little crazy?
People often think Filipino food is overly heavy or greasy, but there’s a lot of variety—we have light and fresh dishes such as kinilaw (Filipino ceviche) or vegetable-based stews like Pinakbet.
4. Describe a dish from your childhood that still makes you smile.
Champorado (chocolate rice porridge).
It’s a sweet rice porridge made with cocoa and sticky rice, often served with a side of dried fish for contrast. It’s a perfect rainy-day treat that takes me back to lazy mornings at home.
5. Is there an ingredient from home that’s tricky to find in New Zealand? What do you use as a stand-in and how does it stack up?
Calamansi has traditionally been hard to find, and I used to substitute it with a mix of lemon and lime. While that combination works, it doesn’t fully capture the sharper, more aromatic essence of calamansi. Thankfully, we are grateful for the farmers in New Zealand who have patiently cultivated calamansi, and now we can enjoy it fresh during the summer months. This has been a game-changer for our cooking and a beautiful bridge between our two cultures.
6. What’s the one thing you most miss about food in Philippines?
Street food culture. The experience of grabbing freshly grilled skewers, fish balls, or halo-halo from street vendors is something I deeply miss. It’s more than the food—it’s the lively energy of the streets.
7. What’s your go-to recipe, either from your restaurant or something you love whipping up at home?
Lechon kawali (crispy fried pork belly). It’s a crowd-pleaser, with its crunchy skin and juicy meat, and is something I love to serve both at home and in the restaurant.
8. What’s your advice for someone about to dive into Filipino food for the first time? Where/ with what should they start?
Start with adobo or lumpia (spring rolls). These are iconic dishes that are easy to enjoy and offer a gateway to the diverse flavours of Filipino cuisine.
9. Or better yet, if they’re visiting the Philippines, where should they head for the best food experiences?
Cebu for lechon, Pampanga for sisig, and Manila for a mix of traditional and modern Filipino cuisine. Each region has its specialties, offering different ways to experience Filipino food.
9. What’s the one ingredient from your culture that you think could be a game-changer if more New Zealanders tried it?
Ube (purple yam). Its vibrant colour and unique sweet flavour make it ideal for desserts like ice cream or pastries. It’s already gaining global attention, and I believe it could be a hit in New Zealand too.
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“I love creating memories around food and what makes it a good dish. Connecting to nature and to community and working with an open mind is how I create a dish.”
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