Brains, Intestines. Liver. Kidneys. Tongue, tripe and tails – the whole nine yards. If you’ve been to Europe, South America, Asia, Africa, the Middle East or the Subcontinent (basically anywhere not overly Anglo), visited local food markets and squizzed the fresh produce, you’ll know that in actual food cultures, everything’s on the table. Literally. Before food production became industrialised, growing food was both labour-intensive and hit and miss; if a crop failed or the pig karked it, you’d be screwed. Nothing went to waste and squeamishness, of the “gee no thanks, I don’t eat gizzards / jellied moose nose / bat paste / fermented salmon / pickled pigs feet / foetus soup / congealed duck’s blood” ilk probably wouldn’t fly.

In many places this is still the case, while in others they still eat all the bits because by now people are genuinely fond of them. What does this have to do with these meat-free potato and tuna polpette? Not much. Except that the flip side of the Eat Everything coin is the Make Do With Exactly What You’ve Got ethos. And we are so here for that. You survey your food supplies, then work out how to fashion them into something edible before spending more at the super. So with just potatoes, a bit of cheese, eggs, some cheeky capers and a can of tuna in the collective cupboard, we put this worthy mindset to the test. The result? These seriously delicious, but really pretty frugal, crisp, fried, easy-to-make potato cakes. You could throw fresh chopped herbs, more flaked tuna (which will make them more fragile but what the hey) or extra cheese at them if you like. They’re fully excellent with tomato sauce and ours is home-made, but use whatever you have. Abso no judgement if it’s out of a jar. 

SERVES 4

1kg all-purpose potatoes

4 eggs

100g (1 cup) finely grated parmesan

50g (¼ cup) drained baby capers, squeezed dry

185g can tuna in oil, drained well and flaked

5-6 anchovy fillets, finely chopped (optional)

plain flour, for dusting

90g (1½ cups) panko, approximately

olive oil, for shallow frying 

basil leaves, lemon wedges, and your fave tomato sauce, heated, to serve

Peel, then chop the potatoes in large pieces. Place in a large saucepan, cover with cold salted water, then bring to the boil. Cook over medium heat for 20 minutes or until tender, then drain well, reserving the pan. Stand the potatoes in a colander for 10 minutes to allow any excess moisture to evaporate. Return the potatoes to the pan, then mash well. Add 2 of the eggs, then using a fork, beat in well. Add the parmesan, capers, tuna and anchovies, if using, then stir to combine all the ingredients well, seasoning with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. Meanwhile, preheat the oven to 120C.

Place the remaining eggs in a small bowl or container and beat well. Place the panko in another bowl, then place a half cup or so of flour in another. Line a tray with baking paper. Take portions of the potato mixture, about 2 heaped tablespoons at a  time, then use your hands to form them into patties, about 9cm across. Place them on the lined tray as you go; you should have about 18 patties. Working with one pattie at a time, dip them in the flour to lightly coat, carefully shaking off the excess. Dip them in the egg to cover, allowing excess egg to drain off, then place them in the panko and lightly press to coat them in crumbs all over. 

Heat olive oil, about 5mm deep, in a large frying pan over medium heat. Cook the patties, in batches, for 5-6 minutes on each side or until deep golden and crisp. Place on an oven tray and keep warm while the remaining patties cook. Serve the patties with tomato sauce to the side, scattered with basil leaves and with lemon wedges for squeezing over.