OK, kids, let’s make choux pastry. It’s a weird beast for sure; you heat water and butter in a smallish saucepan JUST until it simmers and the butter has melted. Next, you dump in sifted flour, then stir like crazy over the heat until the mixture forms a cooked, smooth, floury ball that leaves the side of the pan. You cool this a little, transfer it to the bowl of an electric mixer, then beat it madly as you gradually add egg until the mixture is gorgeously glossy, and falls heavily from a wooden spoon. You can beat the eggs in by hand and this is how we learned when we trained to be chefs but trust us, there are easier ways to build up your flexor carpi muscles. A stand mixer makes far shorter work of the job but be our guests if you are up for a manual work-out. This is the same mix you’d use to make eclairs, profiteroles, gougères, and Paris-Brest cake, BTW, so if you master choux, it opens up a world of possibilities. Beignets is the French way to say ‘fritters’ but somehow their word is more alluring, as most French things are. 

MAKES APPROX 16

250ml (1 cup) water

120g unsalted butter, chopped and at room temperature

1½ tbsp caster sugar

large pinch salt

150g (1 cup) plain flour, sifted

4 large eggs, beaten well

55g (⅓ cup) currants

4 tsp finely grated lemon zest

vegetable oil, for deep frying

sifted icing sugar, for dredging

Combine the water, butter, caster sugar, and salt in a medium saucepan. Bring to the boil over medium-high heat; the butter should be melted. Immediately the mixture boils and working quickly, remove the saucepan from the heat and add the flour all at once. Stir vigorously with a wooden spoon until the mixture comes together and forms a thick dough.

Return the saucepan to the heat and cook the dough, stirring constantly, for about 1-2 minutes, until the dough pulls away from the side of the pan and forms a smooth ball.

Transfer the dough to the bowl of a stand mixer or a large mixing bowl and allow it to cool slightly. Gradually add the beaten eggs, a little at a time, beating well after each addition. The dough should be smooth, glossy and and have a heavy dropping consistency; you may not need to add all the egg. Stir in the currants and lemon zest.

Line a large plate with several layers of kitchen paper.

Heat enough oil to fry in a large, heavy-based saucepan until it reaches 180°C on a thermometer. Working in batches and using a dessert spoon, drop heaped spoonfuls of the dough into the hot oil, being careful not to overcrowd the fryer. Cook for 8-9 minutes, or until the beignets are golden brown and cooked through. Use a slotted spoon to drain the beignets and transfer to the lined plate. While still warm, dredge the beignets well with icing sugar, then serve warm or at room temperature. Beignets are best served on the day of making.