Semolina—yeah, we get it, it’s a bit of a love-hate thing. And we know why: flashbacks to dodgy school puddings that were overly sweet, gloopy, and borderline inedible. One of our grandmothers, for reasons that still mystify us, used lemon essence in her semolina despite having a fruit-laden lemon tree right outside her kitchen window. Go figure.

We’ve talked before about some of the less-than-stellar culinary moments in our collective food history here in Aotearoa New Zealand, and some really dire milk-based puddings were served in the past. We can’t help but wonder what our puddings might’ve looked like if we’d had an Elizabeth David-type figure back in the day. Someone who’d nudge us towards the Mediterranean instead of... Scotland? Sure, many essential ingredients weren’t exactly mainstream in decades past, but imagine if ricotta had made its way into our lives earlier (heck, it’s not like we didn't have cows). Or if we’d embraced lemon zest instead of that awful essence. (We might’ve even been okay with garlic before Digby Law broke out his garlic crusher in the ’70s!)

But back to semolina—this cake changes everything. Based on a rustic Neapolitan cake called migliaccio, it’s way less claggy than a regular, cream-cheesey cheesecake; it’s still a BIT rich, but not a total gut-buster. Traditionally made for Carnevale, which is the last, calorie-laden hurrah before Lent, it’s the kind of dessert that feels indulgent without going overboard. Pair it with stewed apricots, peaches, or even a mixed berry situation, and your arteries will thank you later.

MAKES 1 x 21cm CAKE

625ml (2½ cups) milk

½ vanilla pod, or 2 tsp vanilla extract

50g butter, plus extra, for greasing

250g (1⅓ cups) fine semolina

1 tsp finely grated orange zest

1 tsp finely grated lemon zest

5 large eggs

295g (1⅓ cups) caster sugar

375g ricotta

whipped cream to serve (optional)

Roasted strawberries

600g strawberries, hulled and large ones halved

110g (½ cup) caster sugar

4-5 tsp balsamic vinegar

Combine the milk and 500ml (2 cups) water in a large saucepan. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla pod and add the scraped pod to the pan, reserving the seeds. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium heat. Stirring constantly to prevent lumps forming, add the semolina in a slow, steady stream, then cook, stirring, for 4-5 minutes or until the mixture boils and becomes very thick. Remove from the heat, remove the vanilla pod, then stir in the butter, citrus zest and the reserved vanilla seeds. Pour the mixture onto a large tray to cool to room temperature, it will become quite firm.

Heat the oven to 180C. Line the base of a 21cm springform tin with baking paper, then lightly grease the sides.

Using electric beaters, whisk the eggs and sugar, in a large bowl, until thick and pale. Add the ricotta and beat until smooth. Break the semolina mixture up with your hands, then, adding it piece by piece, beat the semolina mixture into the ricotta mixture until it is incorporated and smooth. Pour the mixture into the prepared tin, then bake for 1 hour or until firm but still slightly jiggly in the middle. Cool to room temperature.

Meanwhile, for the roasted strawberries, spread the strawberries over the base of a roasting dish. Sprinkle with the sugar, then drizzle with the vinegar and 3 tbsp water. Roast for 35 minutes or until the strawberries are lightly charred and a syrup has formed. Cool to room temperature before serving with the cake.