This might be divisive, but we make rice pudding simmered on the stove and not baked in the oven. We know the skin on baked rice pudding is a thing and some households fully go to war claiming the biggest bit of that thin, caramelised layer, but we don’t go for it. But make and eat rice pudding however you like; it’s no skin off ours. Pun intended. 

The rice-to-milk ratio in this recipe seems improbable when you shove everything together, because bugger-all actual rice is involved. But with patient stirring over a low-ish heat, it ultimately thickens and takes on that scoffable creaminess we all know and love. Cooked long enough the sugar and lactose caramelise slightly, hence the beigey-hue.Your pudding will stiffen a bit on standing, particularly if you fridge it, but stirring pouring cream (or a bit of milk) through to loosen things up is an easy fix. (And isn’t it liberating to occasionally flip the bird at cholesterol-related admonitions by adding cream to simmered, reduced, full fat milk?) 

Use short or medium grain rice; arborio or one of those other Italian risotto varieties like vialone nano or carnaroli would work too as they’re structured to cook to maximum, lush starchiness.Do NOT use basmati (not starchy enough) or jasmine (because fragranced rice? Just no. Unless you particularly want Gucci Bloom eau de toilette vibes in your sweet). We prefer the neutrality of white sugar but brown or raw will skew things in a more caramel-flavoured direction. Coconut sugar could be pleasant too and even palm.

The correct  thing to put with creamy rice pudding is home-stewed fruit. Apple, rhubarb, feijoa, tamarillo or quince (as here) are all divine and if you want to get your Fancy on, some red wine-poached pears, or figs in red wine syrup, would be beyond sublime. We pan-cooked some apple in butter and sugar for a quick fruity fix and it was 👌.

SERVES 6

1.5 litres (6 cups) milk, approximately

110g (½ cup) short or medium grain rice

75g (⅓ cup) caster sugar

½ a vanilla pod, seeds scraped, or 2 tsp vanilla extract

stewed or poached fruit of your choice

Combine the milk, rice, sugar and vanilla in a medium saucepan. Stirring constantly over medium heat, bring the mixture to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low. Cook, stirring often, for about 40 minutes or until the mixture is thick and creamy, taking care the mixture doesn’t catch on the base of the pan. Cool slightly, stirring to prevent the dreaded skin forming (Unless you like the skin. Who even are you.) Serve warm or cold with stewed or poached fruit of your choice; if the pudding thickens too much on standing, loosen it by stirring a little pouring cream or a bit more milk through it. Unless you like it stupidly thick. 

If you want to replicate my pan-cooked apples, cut 2 large pink ladies into pieces about 1cm. Melt 25g butter in a heavy-based frying pan over medium-high heat, add the apples and 1 tbsp of sugar, then cook, stirring pretty constantly, for 8-10 minutes or until the apples are softened and the butter mixture is starting to turn golden.