“Experts Resoundingly Say a No-Sugar Diet is No Good” ** declared an article headline we read over breakfast the other day, as we shoveled jam-mounded refined carbs and syrupy coffee down our throats with abandon. The news played to our sugar-loving confirmation bias and isn’t that a lesson for the ages? We’re almost sure we could work this concept into a slogan, grab our megaphones and start a cranky 'Make Sugar Great Again’ counter culture. Wanna buy a hat?

Natch, it always pays to read past an attention-grabbing header that can have little connection to what follows. In this instance the article wasn’t saying anything new… we all know excess refined sugar is not good, yes? “Experts,” the writer explained, “increasingly say that it's important to distinguish between a zero-sugar diet, a zero-added-sugar diet, and a low-sugar diet. Men should consume no more than nine daily teaspoons of added sugar, while women should have no more than six teaspoons per day.” Uh-oh. We’ve just made meringues.

Meringue is basically refined sugar and air and if you’re looking at a recipe for meringue, such as this one, and trying to figure out the sugar content; here you go. It’s 18.3g per meringue. Which doesn’t account for the chocolate component although as you’ll see, we haven’t used an overly sweet one so at least we’re trying. For reference, there’s 4g of sugar in a teaspoon and we shovel quite a number of those into our tea on an hourly basis so 4½ teaspoons in a meringue won’t even touch our sides. But according to the article, it really should. We get it. Meringues are a treat and look, you could always make these half the size and then you’re sorted.

Sugar consumption aside, we love a meringue. It’s good to have a few meringue recipes up your jumper for any left-over egg whites; they’re too good – and too pricey – to chuck out. Meringues like this are straightforward to make but there are a few things to watch out for. Namely…

🥚 Your egg whites can be either room temperature or cold from the fridge; they’ll whip either way. Just make sure there are no bits of yolk in them because any fat (even a skerrick) will inhibit aeration. Similarly, make sure your bowl and beaters are scrupulously clean. 

🥚 Don’t over-whisk the whites before starting to add the sugar as over-beating will ultimately make break down. A dash of acid (cream of tartar is perfect; see our Eternal Questions this week) prevents this if you’re worried.  

🥚 Start adding the sugar slowly and only when the whites form firm peaks that hold their shape. 

🥚 Add the sugar gradually and make sure it is fully dissolved at the end (to test, take a bit of mixture and rub it between your fingers. If it feels gritty, keep whisking).

🥚 Whisk the meringue until it is thick and glossy but don’t go crazy. Ove beating at this stage makes meringue grainy or weepy. Ewww.

**www.gq.com/story/zero-sugar-diet

MAKES 12

80g dark chocolate (85%), coarsely chopped (more about chocoalte % here)

4 large egg whites, at room temperature

1 cup (220g) caster sugar

½ tsp cream of tartar

1 tsp cornflour

large pinch salt

45g (⅓ cup) pistachio kernels, coarsely chopped

Preheat the oven to 135°C and line a large baking tray with baking paper.

Bring a small saucepan half filled with water to a simmer. Place the chocolate in a bowl large enough to fit snugly over the pan, making sure the base is not touching the water. Heat until the chocolate melts, stir it smooth, then remove from the heat and cool.

Meanwhile, using electric beaters or the whisk attachment of a cake mixer, whisk the egg whites until firm peaks form. Whisking constantly, very slowly add the sugar, whisking well between each addition, then continue whisking until the mixture is stiff, glossy and the sugar has dissolved. (To test, take a little meringue between your fingers; if it feels gritty, keep whisking). Whisk in the cream of tartar, cornflour and salt. 

Drizzle the chocolate over the meringue, then quickly stir once to partially swirl the chocolate; don’t stir or mix too much. It doesn’t matter if there are big patches of chocolate in the meringue. Using 2 large spoons (serving spoons are ideal), take spoonfuls of the mixture and drop them on the tray, keeping them about 5cm apart to allow for spreading. Scatter with pistachios, then bake for 1 hour; don’t open the oven door. Turn the oven off, then leave the meringues in the oven to cool completely. 

Meringues are best served on the day they’re made and remember. JUST ONE EACH!