If you’re looking at this recipe and wondering why we just didn’t use chicken mince, it’s because we don’t like it. Like, we r-e-a-l-l-y don’t like it. It’s mushy, pallid, has a really sloppy texture and who knows what sad part of the bird it actually comes from. So yeah, we chop our own. Which doesn’t take long if you’ve got a large, sharp knife or even a cleaver – and don’t even think about using breast instead of thigh here as it’s too lean. Mince needs a bit of fat or it will be dry and uninteresting when it’s cooked and anyway, dark chicken meat is overall tastier. Partially freezing the thigh first makes it easier to cut up but you will freeze your fingery bits a bit. We suppose you could pulse coarser chopped chicken in a food processor but you’d have to be careful not to take things too far or you’d have … supermarket chicken mince on your hands.

SERVES 4

650g chicken thigh fillets (about 4), excess fat trimmed

100g day-old crustless bread

250g firm ricotta

2 tsp finely grated lemon zest

2½ tbsp drained baby capers

1 egg, beaten well

2½ tbsp butter

1½ tbsp olive oil

4 small sprigs of sage

500ml (2 cups) chicken stock

125ml (½ cup) pouring cream

1-2 tbsp lemon juice, or to taste

120g (1¼ cup) finely grated parmesan

350g (1¾ cups) orzo or other pasta

50g (⅓ cup) toasted pinenuts

spinach or other leafy salad, to serve

Using a large, sharp knife, finely chop the chicken; it’s slightly easier if the chicken is partially frozen but it’s not a difficult job. Place the bread in a bowl, cover with cold water, then drain well. Using your hands, squeeze as much water out of the bread as possible, then use our fingers to break the bread up into fine crumbs. Combine the chicken, crumbs, ricotta, lemon zest, capers, egg, and bread in a large bowl. Season well with salt and pepper, then use clean hands to mix well. Take slightly heaped tablespoonfuls of the mixture and roll into balls, placing them on a lined tray. Refrigerate for 1-2 hours to firm, if possible. 

Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil for the orzo. Heat the butter and olive oil in a large, heavy-based frypan over medium-high heat. Add the sage sprigs, then cook the meatballs, in batches if necessary and turning often, for about 8 minutes or until golden and cooked through and the sage is nicely sizzled. Remove the meatballs to a plate. Increase the heat to high, then add the chicken stock and boil for 5-6 minutes or until it has reduced a little. Add the cream and lemon juice, season with salt and pepper, then boil for another 4 minutes, or until reduced to a light sauce consistency. Return the meatballs to the pan with a little of the parmesan scattered over, toss to combine well, then reduce the heat to low and keep warm.

Meanwhile, cook the orzo for 10 minutes or according to packet directions until al dente, then drain well. Divide among plates with the meatballs and sauce, top with the remaining parmesan, then serve.