A unique ingredient from southern Turkey, pepper paste is a highly concentrated puree made from various types of cooked, peeled capsicums. It comes in a few permutations, tatli (or “sweet” ) and aci (“hot”), with a mild version in between. Called biber salçası in Turkish, pepper paste is incorporated into a wide variety of dishes, and used in much the same way (and sometimes in tandem with) tomato paste. From dips, spreads and salads through to stews, pilafs, soups, marinades and in fillings for dolma (stuffed vegetables), borek (pastries) and pide (Turkish pizza), pepper paste is a crucial Turkish ingredient, adding richness, intensity and lovely rich colour.

Although biber salçası comes in commercial iterations, it's not uncommon to see Turkish women making their own, preparing a year’s worth of the paste in autumn when there is a glut of peppers. The paste they make is sun-dried in large trays on the tops of their flat roofs or balconies; the heat of the sun concentrates the flavour of the peeled, pureed peppers and turns the paste a beautiful burnished red colour. Good homemade pepper paste is fragrant and fresh-tasting and can be eaten as a snack with nothing more than bread, butter and some cheese. The mass-produced, industrial ones are more akin to tomato paste and better suited to cooking. Can’t buy it where you live? No worries, we have a recipe for it. You’re welcome. 

TURKISH PEPPER PASTE

By Turkish standards, this yields a modest amount (a few cups-worth, depending on how long you cook it down for. It should be very thick, so feel free to double or even triple the quantities). The time the paste takes to reduce and thicken will depend on the size of your saucepan so choose a large one with plenty of surface area for evaporation. Especially if you are making a larger quantity. Choose hot paprika and add some dried chilli flakes if you want a spicier paste. Char the capsicums over a hot barbecue or even under an oven grill if that’s more convenient and you don’t have gas, although using the oven won’t give you that lovely smoky flavour.

6 large red capsicums

6 large red bullhorn peppers

1 tbsp sweet or hot paprika

2½ tbsp lemon juice

2½ tbsp olive oil

1½ tsp salt, approximately

Working in batches, place the capsicums and peppers directly over a low gas flame and cook, turning often, for 8-10 minutes until they are well charred all over. Transfer to a large bowl then stand for 20 minutes or until cool enough to handle. Remove the blackened skin, stems and seeds then transfer the flesh to a food processor and process until a smooth puree forms.

Combine the puree in a large saucepan with the remaining ingredients and stir to combine well. Bring the mixture to a simmer over medium then reduce  heat to low. Cook, stirring often, for 45- 50 minutes or until a very thick puree forms - a wooden spoon should leave a trail through the paste when you draw it along the base of the pan. Cool the paste to room temperature then transfer to a sterilised jar and pour a layer of olive oil over the surface to seal it from any air. Cover with a lid then refrigerate until needed. Pepper paste will keep, refrigerated for up to 4 weeks.