Capers are the unopened flower buds of the caper bush (Capparis spinosa), a perennial plant native to the Mediterranean region. It’s a hardy shrub that thrives in rocky, arid, sunny environments and is found in parts of Italy, Spain, Greece, and North Africa. Capers are also cultivated in Australia! Those from the Italian island of Pantelleria, near Sicily, have been protected by a Geographical Indication Status since 1996 and are considered the world’s best. 

The cultivation of capers is labour-intensive. The buds must be harvested by hand before they bloom, typically in the early hours to ensure the capers retain their delicate flavour and texture. After harvesting, capers are typically dried, then pickled in brine or packed in salt. This process not only preserves them but also enhances their unique, tangy flavour. Pickling involves soaking the buds in a vinegar or salt solution to impart that characteristic piquancy that makes capers so distinctive when added to a dish.

The use of capers dates back to ancient times. Evidence suggests that they were known and utilised as far back as 2000 BCE; they were well-known in ancient Greek and Roman cuisine. Theophrastus, a Greek philosopher and botanist, wrote about capers in his work "Enquiry into Plants" around the 4th century BCE, highlighting their culinary and medicinal uses.

Capers are renowned for their versatility in the kitchen. Their sharp, salty flavour elevates a wide range of dishes, from salads to sauces to main courses. Classical uses for capers include the French Sauce Tartare, a mayonnaise-based condiment that pairs perfectly with seafood, Chicken Piccata, featuring a buttery lemon-caper sauce, and Pasta Puttanesca, a Sicilian dish where capers, olives, anchovies, and tomatoes make a rustic sauce for pasta. Capers are a primary ingredient in tapenade, a Provencal olive spread that also includes anchovies and herbs and is perfect spread on crusty bread or used as a dip. Capers great in potato salads, on pizza toppings, in salads and even fried until frizzled and crisp, and used as a garnish. They go particularly well with fish, chicken, pork and veal.

Note that capers are not the same as caper berries which are the size of an olive; the caper berry is what happens when the caper (flower bud) is not picked and matures into a caper berry. Commercially, capers are graded and sold according to size. They range from tiny (about 7mm), up to 11-14mm and the smallest ones are considered the most delicate and therefore prized. The larger ones taste stronger and more acidic so you need to be judicious when you use them. Capers are either packed in brine or salt. Brine-packed capers, when completely submerged, will keep for nine months or longer in the refrigerator once opened. Salt-packed capers can be stored at cool room temperature for up to six months. Chefs prefer salted capers for their superior flavour; they need rinsing and a 10 minute soaking before using or they are too salty. Capers in brine are ready to use straight from the jar; they just need draining.