Nicky Pellegrino in the south of Italy
Nicky Pellegrino is an award-winning journalist, writing about health, science and lifestyle – she also tops the New Zealand best-seller charts with her popular novels. Raised in the UK, she now lives in Auckland.
1. What’s your ultimate foodie destination, and why does the food there blow your mind? (Is it the flavours, the vibe, or something completely unexpected?)
My ultimate foodie destination is Italy, in particular the south, so anywhere from Rome down. In many ways the food is very simple, born from hard times and people making do with what they had. But the quality of the ingredients along with the passion most Italians have for how they eat, is what makes it really special.
2. What’s the one dish from this place that you dream about when you’re back home? (We all have that one dish we can’t stop thinking about. What’s yours, and where did you have it?)
The dish I dream about is a Caprese salad made with juicy ripe tomatoes and fresh buffalo mozzarella. There are some good New Zealand producers – shout out to Clevedon Buffalo – but nothing compares to the flavour and texture of fresh buffalo mozzarella when you’re in Campania. I’ve loved it ever since I was a child and we spent summer holidays staying with family there. I don’t want it to be smoked or melted on a pizza, I just want a giant mound all to myself.
3. When you’re in this dream destination, what does a perfect food day look like? (Walk us through breakfast, lunch, and dinner—and don’t forget the snacks!)
Coffee and a sfogliatella ricca for breakfast. These are crisp, shell-shaped pastries filled with a candied orange-spiked ricotta custard. Mostly you find them in Campania. For lunch a table loaded with cheeses, cured meats, fat green olives, artichoke hearts and a big salad. If on the coast, then dinner at seafood restaurant by the water.
4. Is there a restaurant or café in this location that you think deserves a cult following? (What’s the spot you keep going back to, and why should everyone else know about it?)
I’m often with friends and family so there’s a lot of home-cooking. But my two recent favourites in Rome are Antico Arco on the Janiculum Hill. It’s just above Trastevere so away from the bustle and the food is really good (you can find quite a lot of bad food in Rome). And Nonna Betta in the Jewish Quarter of Rome. One of my cousins put me onto this place and I was particularly taken by the fried artichokes.
5. What’s the most surprising or underrated ingredient you’ve discovered in this place? (Share a hidden gem that you think more people should know about.)
Down in Calabria and Basilicata they eat a lot of chilli and they have these dried peppers known as peperone crusco that are sweet and smoky and often sprinkled over dishes – great with fish – to add flavour and crunchy texture.
6. Are there any foodie or cultural experiences in this place that have stuck with you? (Street markets, cooking classes, or anything that gives you a deeper connection to the local food culture?)
When I was researching a book in Sicily I spent a week at the Love Sicily Cooking School which is in Modica, a baroque town famous for its chocolate. I loved it so much that I took a tour group back earlier this year and we ate our way around Ragusa, Noto, Modica and Ortigia. Love Sicily is still there and run by my friend Katia Amore who will teach you how to make chicken with Modica chocolate and other local dishes. Sicily is also where you’ll find Italy’s best desserts.
7. When you’re planning a trip, how much do you structure your itinerary around food? (Do you chase down restaurants and markets first, or are you more of a ‘discover it on the fly’ person?)
I’m usually trying to research a book, catch up with friends and family, have some downtime and do some writing… so often I’m discovering things on the fly or asking people for recommendations as I go. I do really love a food walking tour and often that is the thing I’ll plan ahead. I did a great one in Rome in the Testaccio area where there’s a market and some really good neighbourhood-style restaurants. Also a fun one round Venice’s cicchetti bars a few years ago.
8. What are your top tips for fellow food-lovers visiting this place for the first time? (What’s the best advice for someone who wants to eat like a local?)
Try and find self-catering accommodation because southern Italian supermarkets are full of the most wonderful food and, aside from the seafood, it’s much more reasonably priced so you can treat yourself daily to outrageously good cheese and salumi (the Italian word for charcuterie).
9. Any must-visit shops or markets to hit up for food souvenirs or local ingredients? (We’re talking spices, sauces, cookware—anything you’d throw in your suitcase!)
If you go to Puglia be sure to bring back a bottle of the almond milk syrup they use to make the iced coffee called Caffe Leccese. It’s the most refreshing and delicious thing to drink on a hot summer’s day.
10. What would you say to someone who’s never been to this destination—what are they missing out on? (Sell us on this place! What’s the vibe, and why should we add it to our must-visit list?)
Every region of Italy has its own flavours and food traditions. The one thing they all have in common is warm, friendly people who are genuinely thrilled if you’re interested in their culture, language and cooking. Once I visited a butcher shop in a little town in Puglia that I was just passing through. I asked the man behind the counter where I could get vegetables to go with my beef and he climbed into his car, drove ahead to lead us to the nearest produce shop, then took us in and introduced us to the owner. Also every bit of the food we bought was beautiful.
The Gospel According to Italian Flavour…
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Making arancini at La Timpa near Ragusa