Lazy Sunday Club

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Antony Suvalko in Seoul, South Korea

Antony Suvalko is half of the team that started the wildly successful community and website, Lazy Susan. With a background in professional cooking and a keen instinct for content creation, the digi and publishing world is his playground. 

1. What’s your ultimate foodie destination, and why does the food there blow your mind? (Is it the flavours, the vibe, or something completely unexpected?)

I’m currently fascinated by South Korea (and North Korea, too. Yes, really). I finally travelled there last year for the first time and within 24hrs of landing I was asking myself… why did it take me so long? Seoul delivers on that Asian big city vibe; it’s fast, a bit moody and overall inviting… the smells on the street tell you you’re in a city with a rich food culture. Koreans love to eat, drink (beer and soju) and chat… especially over BBQ, and that’s what won me over. Especially late at night when you can experience all of this in the lanes and alleyways called golmoggil (골목길).

2. What’s the one dish from this place that you dream about when you’re back home? (We all have that one dish we can’t stop thinking about. What’s yours, and where did you have it?)

After talking about Korean BBQ, it’s actually not Korean BBQ! It’s naengmyeon (물냉면; originally a North Korean dish), which is a dish of buckwheat noodles, beef, and pork in a chilled, fermented radish broth… who thought an icy radish broth could make something taste this good?

3. When you’re in this dream destination, what does a perfect food day look like? (Walk us through breakfast, lunch, and dinner—and don’t forget the snacks!)

Breakfast: We discovered Eggdrop, a contemporary sandwich chain you can find throughout South Korea - I recommend their Bulgogi K’Street Toast, which is spongy grilled brioche with soft eggs and sweet mayo. It’s the kind of twist on Western-style food the Koreans do really well.

Lunch: Head to Gwangjang Market (광장시장) for traditional Korean street food and take your pick of the classics – dumplings (mandu, 만두), rice cakes (tteokbokki, 떡볶이), mung bean pancake (bindaetteok, 빈대떡), beef tartare (yukhoe, 육회) and cold soybean noodle soup (kongguksu, 콩국수). I can recommend Pingchang Noodles for their japchae ((잡채), and sundae (순대, a local style of blood sausage).

Afternoon Tea: If you’re visiting the Bukchon Hanok Village (and you should), you’ll need a rest as it’s hilly, so head to Cafe Layered (레이어드) for fantastic coffee and the best western baking I have seen… anywhere! Seriously!

Dinner: I’d recommend anyone go for Korean BBQ (sorry vegetarians); it’s a little pricey but you have to do it. When in Rome, and all of that. A good, mid-range option is Wangbijip Myeongdong 2nd Store (왕비집 명동2호점), where you should choose a mixed meat selection that includes their wagyu options. Wherever you venture for your BBQ, numerous amazing side-dishes called banchan (반찬), will always be served. As a bonus , Wangbijip Myeongdong 2nd Store puts you in Myeondong where the shopping is fantastic and goes late, so don’t miss it!

4. Is there a restaurant or café in this location that you think deserves a cult following? (What’s the spot you keep going back to, and why should everyone else know about it?)

See question 2. I can recommend a stonking version of Naengmyeon from the Michelin-acclaimed Jinmi Pyeongyang Naengmyeon in Nonhyeon-dong (part of Gangnam-gu). While you’re there, head to Tartine Bakery (one of Chad Robertson’s outposts – he’s famous for Tartine Bakery and Bar Tartine in San Francisco) in Dosan for a coffee and cake treat.

5. What’s the most surprising or underrated ingredient you’ve discovered in this place? (Share a hidden gem that you think more people should know about.)

I’m really not fluent (yet) in Korean cuisine to judge what’s underrated, but I do appreciate their BBQ restaurants generally using charcoal instead of gas. We know the food tastes better, but the look and smell can’t be beaten… it adds to the overall experience. That, and the cocktail they make by mixing beer and soju called somaek (소맥).

6. Are there any foodie or cultural experiences in this place that have stuck with you? (Street markets, cooking classes, or anything that gives you a deeper connection to the local food culture?)

The way the Koreans have embraced American food, a hangover from the Korean war (which has never officially ended, BTW). So you’ll see dishes using Spam, hotdogs and American cheese, which you find on rice, with tteokbokki and through noodles. (Check our our version of Korean Army Noodles, a popular dish that uses All The American Things!)

7. When you’re planning a trip, how much do you structure your itinerary around food? (Do you chase down restaurants and markets first, or are you more of a ‘discover it on the fly’ person?)

I love food and history, which are intrinsically linked. I’m a planner, so before I travel I spend a fair amount of time creating personalised Google Maps – this is something I learned to do through previous publishing ventures when I created culinary travel guides. I pin all my wish-list food destinations, historic streets, museums, cultural centres, art houses and parks, each day getting a different colour and everything mapped out in walkable order! Disclaimer: Google Maps do not work effectively in South Korea, so I used use Naver Maps.

8. What are your top tips for fellow food-lovers visiting this place for the first time? (What’s the best advice for someone who wants to eat like a local?)

Choose your accommodation district wisely; we opted for Myeondong. It’s a central ‘burb famous for its retail, restaurants, street markets, late nights and neon, which I have a soft spot for. If you’re not sure of where to go, just follow the locals, or ask – many Koreans speak English and are more than willing to help.

9. Any must-visit shops or markets to hit up for food souvenirs or local ingredients? (We’re talking spices, sauces, cookware—anything you’d throw in your suitcase!)

Check out the food sections of the department stores, especially the larger ones like Lotte in Myeondong… it’s a glimpse into the local food culture. While you’re there, order lunch and then walk the retail aisles and whatever you do, don’t miss their amazing frozen food selection… it’s TV dinner heaven!

10. What would you say to someone who’s never been to this destination—what are they missing out on? (Sell us on this place! What’s the vibe, and why should we add it to our must-visit list?)

We know destinations like Japan, Thailand, Indonesia rate highly, but so should South Korea. It’s one of the most advanced nations in the world, it’s geographically small (a fast train to Busan in the south takes 2hrs 15min), it’s easily navigated (in the cities the subway is your friend), many people understand English, and it has a rich and fascinating history. Korea is shaped by Eastern and Western influences with a distinct cuisine that is varied and vibrant – you can go spicy, mild, smokey, crisp, soft, subtle, bold… the flavours encompass the entire spectrum. We’re already planning a return trip, with Jeju Island and seafood at the top of the hit-list.

Note: All this and no mention of Korean Fried Chicken, chikin (치킨) – you’ll find this all over Seoul.


The Gospel According to Korean Flavour…

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Korean tourists in hanbok at Gyeongbokgung Palace

Naengmyeon at Jinmi Pyeongyang Naengmyeon


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