Seville in ten! Part 2
By Leanne Kitchen
If you’ve been keeping up you’ll note we recently delved into Seville, giving just a few reasons to love this luscious Andalusian city. Dripping with history, oozing charm and marinated in up-beat, tapas-fuelled vibes, it’s the kind of place that gets right under your skin, with a single visit barely scratching its alluring surface. Never mind the day trips! Here are a few more reasons to dream of visiting lovely old Seville.
6. PLAZA DE ESPANA
In a town brimming with architectural gems, it’s unfair to pick faves. Here goes anyway. Used as a film set for Lawrence of Arabia in 1962, Star Wars The Attack of The Clones (2002), The Dictator and others, “Spain Square '' was built for the 1929 Ibero-American Exposition. A fantastical mix of styles (art deco, Renaissance/Moorish/ Baroque revival ) and positioned on the edge of the wonderful Maria Luisa Park, it’s a must-see for architecture and history buffs. Measuring 50,000 square metres, the sweeping, semi-circlular complex has a ground level portico and first-floor balustrade with balconies stretching along its length – there’s a moat, fountain and four bridges, each representing the ancient kingdoms of Spain: Castille, Aragon, Navarre and Leonand. 48 extravagantly tiled alcoves represent all the provinces, complete with ceramic maps and stunning tableau – it’s a ‘thing’ for Spaniards to have their picture taken in their home province’s section. Particularly atmospheric as the sun goes down, the plaza is simply pretty. If you’re lucky, there’ll be busking flamenco performers to add to the overall vibes, plus the clip-clop of horse-drawn carriages ferrying tourists around the place.
7. PALACES AND ART
It’s worth visiting a few of Seville’s fabulous old palaces. Nowhere as subscribed as the bigger draws (looking at you, Cathedral and Alcazar), it’s possible to savour moments alone in their atmospheric, art-stuffed rooms and peaceful courtyards, insulated from the heat and clamour of the city’s buzz. Faves? Defo the Palacio de las Dueñas, constructed in the late 15th century and with lavish interiors and courtyards that speak to a mix of Gothic, Renaissance and Moorish styles. With over 1400 pieces of art, ceramics, furniture and other artefacts, plus spectacular gardens, it’s lovely. The Palacio de la Condesa de Lebrija’s namesake owner was an ardent collector of mosaics, antiquities, Asian art and paintings by European masters and the collections are incredible. As are all the decorative details of the house itself; there are details everywhere in its two floors, including arches in Arabic design, tile plinths from a ruined convent and coffered ceilings from a 16th century palace. The Hospital de los Venerables, a former charity hospital now home to a stunning collection of paintings by Velasquez, Varela and other painters of the Spanish Golden Age. Built in the Baroque style, the highlight is maybe the gorgeously frescoed, barrel-vaulted chapel; it’s astounding.
8. MARKETS AND LAS SETAS
Set aside time for a food market or three; as a bonus, you can pull up stool and graze, as most markets have areas for casual eating. Seville’s markets are a-mazing. Mercado de la Encarnación is old, but you’d never know from its current, modern iteration, under the Espacio Metropol Parasol. A.K.A Las Setas (‘the mushrooms’), it’s a love-it/hate-it post-modernist structure that hulks over a central location and has become a popular meeting place. Fun fact; it’s the world’s largest wooden structure, measuring 150 x 70 meters and 28.5 meters high. There are 70 produce stalls selling everything from dazzling arrays of fruits to spanking fresh fish – you can even buy live snails. J Carlos Camacho, the butcher at stall 13, sells stunning meats and smallgoods; they specialise in the fabled toro de lidia (bull meat straight from the ring). Jamoneria José Luis Romero is THE place to go for jamon and other fantastic Iberian foodstuffs – consider splashing out on their jamon tastings, complete with slicing demos by their in-house masters. After roving the market, either go to the lower level of Las Setas to view the extensive Roman ruins there, or zip up to the rooftop and take in spectacular views over the city - with a drink! There’s a bar up there. Want to experience a more neighbourhood-y mercado? Head toSeville’s oldest, the Mercado de la Feria on Calle Feria. Abutting the 13th century Omnium Sanctorum Church, there are the usual fresh displays of fish, meat and produce, as well as small shops at the front of the market. The big draw is to the rear where various stalls cook up delish fish and seafood tapas. La Cantina , right outside, is a hidden gem of a casual eatery that’s perfect for a quick, midday bite.
9. CERAMICS AND TRIANA
Speaking of food markets, there’s a killer one in Triana, just over the Isabel II bridge and sitting on the ruins of San Jorge Castle, the seat of the Inquisition (yes, THAT Inquisition). It’s well worth a stop on your way to drop coin in the ceramic workshops Traian’s so famous for. With over 80 stands (including tapas bars and even a cooking school, Taller Andaluz de Cocina), the fresh produce is particularly knock-out – see the tomatoes and weep! Triana is an old working class quarter that’s famous as the birthplace of flamenco and an association with gitano (gypsy) culture and bullfighting. It doesn’t have any massive sights as such, but does offer plenty of colour ,character and its own singular identity. Seville has a reputation in Spain for being ‘pijo’, or ‘posh’, but Triana is defo not that. Once a major global ceramics supplier, Triana is responsible for the azulejos (decorative ceramic street signs and house numbers) you see all over Spain; if they’re not all made here, they’re direct copies of the Triana style. To shop for these, and other ceramic objects of desire, head to Cerámica Santa Ana (Calle San Jorge, 31) or Cerámica Triana (Calle Callao,14) for selections across all price points and sizes. Walking pretty Calle Betis, ground zero for bars and restaurants and lined with coloured facades, is relaxing during the day; it has spectacular views back over the river and really comes alive at night. Triana’s cobbled streets, narrower than, say, Santa Cruz’s, are less touristed and somehow feel more ‘real’. History buffs will love Plaza del Altozano, once a meet-up place for flamenco singers, with its glassed-in balconies. When hunger hits, there are a heap of great places to try; consider Las Golondrinas 1 (Calle Antillano Campos, 26) for legendarily great tapas, Casa Cuesta (Calle Castilla,1) for a gorgeous interior and excellent wines (oh and try the tortilla española in whisky sauce!), Sol y Sombra (Calle Castilla, 147) for stunning olde world vibes and good food to match, Taberna la Plazuela (Calle Plazuela de Santa Ana 1) for fried fish and La Antigua Abacería (Calle Pureza,12), a charming abacería (grocer) in an historic house, where you can eat and drink too.
10. DAY TRIPS
Jerez De La Frontera or Cadiz? Toss a coin! These fabled old towns are both within striking distance of Seville and make excellent day trips if time doesn’t allow for longer stints in either. Packed with sights and excellent food, each has a unique flavour. Oh and both lie within the fabled ‘sherry triangle’, a small area in Southern Andalusia that’s the official home of sherry production. Jerez, the closest to Seville (about 1 hour by train), offers sherry bodegas, tabancas (sherry bars), a magnificent cathedral and a gorgeous old town. Foodies will want to beeline to the Mercado de Abastos, housed in a rambling 19th-century building and with the most fantastic seafood stalls. Getting lost in the old town is an ideal way to spend a few hours; think stunning plazas (like Plaza del Arenal or the cosy, romantic Plaza de la Yebra), hidden bars and tons of atmosphere. Bar hopping and sampling sherry is the perfect way to squander an afternoon; Tabanco Las Banderillas (Calle Caballeros, 12), Tabanco San Pablo (Calle San Pablo, 12) and – Jerez’s oldest – Tabanco El Pasaje (Calle Santa María, 8) with its intimate flamenco performance space, are unmissable. If you really want to get to know the ins and outs of Spanish sherry styles, consider touring one of the local bodegas; Bodegas Lustau, Gonzalez Byass (home of Two Pepe) and the slightly off-the-beaten-track Bodegas y Viñedos Díez Mérito, and Bodegas Tradición are among the most accessible if you dont have a car. Jerez is also celebrated for the world famous Royal Andalusian School of Equestrian Art where ‘dancing’ horse performances put Andalusian horsemanship on full display.
Then there’s Cadiz. Ah… Cadiz. Smack bang on the Atlantic, this old port town has maybe the best seafood you’ll eat in your life, a magnificent old town and spectacular beaches. Small and walkable, it’s centred on the palm-lined Plaza Catedral, with its hulking namesake cathedral; as the oldest inhabited city in Europe, there’s mood, history and monuments (like the 18th century Torre Tavira, 16th Century Castle of Santa Catalina and even a Roman theatre) galore. With a lived-in feel, complete with plenty of peeling paint, it’s not as gussied up for tourists as other Andalusian cities, although that’s relative. It does get a tad packed. To eat? Where to start! Tortillitas de camarones (prawn fritters), papas con choco (cuttlefish and potato stew) and ortiguillas (fried sea anemones) are local specialities – the town is also Bluefin Tuna Central, so look for that. It’s still caught using the ancient (and sustainable) almadraba technique, where large white sheets are used to corral the tuna into nets. Taberna Casa Manteca (Calle Corralón de los Carros, 66), La Candela (Calle Feduchy, 3) and Balandro (Alameda Apodaca, 22) are just the tip of the restaurant iceberg. Cute Bar el Vendoor (Calle Veedor Esq, C. Vea Murguía, 10) doubles as a corner store (try the jamon!), Freiduria las Flores (Pl. Topete, 4) fries some of the best fish in town and Gadishushi, at the unmissable Mercado Central de Abastos de Cádiz at Pl de la Libertad, (oh! the seafood here!), serves legendary sushi; Rick Stein is a fan. Yeah; you need to go. If you fancy a beachier experience, head to nearby Playa La Victoria, allegedly one of the best urban beaches in Europe. At three glorious kms long, it’s a stunner and, when the sun gets a bit much, there are some solid dining choices in the ‘hood; Asador Puntaparrilla (Paseo Marítimo s/n Esquina, Gta. Cortadura), roasts a mean pig, while La Pepa Arroz Bar (Paseo Maritimo 14) is a lovely family-run place right near the beach with some banging rice dishes.