Seville in ten! Part 1
By Leanne Kitchen
Lie back and think of Spain. What bounces across your secondary visual cortex? Toreadors? Troubadors? Chilled tomato-y soups? Flamenco dancers in frilly frocks? Packed tapas bars? Blazing hot afternoons? Siestas? Chilled fino? Brits basting on beaches?
Barcelona gets all the buzz, but most Spain cliches actually belong to Andalusia, the country’s second largest comunidad autónoma (region). Bordering the expansive southern coast, the capital is Seville and it’s a seductive place, famous for flamboyant holy week processions, a gob smacking cathedral, orange everything (bitter orange tree-lined streets, orange wine, orange-hued buildings), ceramics, Moorish vestiges, venerable eateries, over 300 sunshine-filled days a year and so much more. With one of the greatest troves of catalogued monuments in all of Europe, you need serious time to get familiar with it all; in a short trip of say, a week, don’t even try. Just pledge to go back. This, in two parts, is a mere peek into its unmissable highlights.
1. OLD SEVILLE
Back when Columbus was hauling bits back from the New World, he headed for Seville, then Spain’s most important port and commercial centre. Way before that the city was Roman, dating from 206BC. Next came the Moors, who left an indelible mark on the architecture, gardens, food etc after an 800 year rule; next came Christian dominance. Centred around the Casco Antiguo (old town) and pushing out to either side of the Guadalquivir River, beautiful Seville richly rewards aimless wanderings, particularly the neighbourhoods of the old city. At 4 square kilometres, it’s the third largest historic centre in Europe, after Venice and Genoa.
Santa Cruz was, from 1248 to until the expulsion in 1492, the old city’s historic Jewish quarter and today its most famous neighbourhood; yes, it’s touristy (many of the big ticket sights like the Cathedral and stunning Alcazar, an incredible Moorish-renaissance palace set in lush gardens, are here). But it is possible to loose yourself – and shake the crowds – in the alluring web of skinny streets (so narrow they’re impassable by car) and calm, leafy plazas. Chockers with whitewashed houses, flower-filled balconies, tucked away courtyards, hidden bars and bubbling fountains, this may well be the Andalusia of your wildest dreams. You can shop (souvenirs and ceramics are well represented), drink and eat extremely well and, if you can’t decide where to refuel, Calle Mateos Gago is lined wall-to-wall with tapas bars.
Shaking the tourist throngs is easy; you just head to other old town barrios (neighbourhoods) for a different vibe. Walking is advised as you don’t know what you might see along the way. A sign on a convent door inviting you to buy the nun’s cookies? A boutique vermut bar? A hat shop selling local brands and styles? An antiquarian shop stuffed with old oils and vintage Seville posters?Tick, tick, tick and tick.
Smart, residential El Arenal is home to Seville’s spectacular 18th century bullring, the 12-sided Torre del Oro, Naval Museum and the Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes, a repository of Sevillian artists. Just to the north of Santa Cruz is the Alfalfa neighbourhood, a cool precinct with a compelling mix of modern restaurants, funky shops, classic bars, small hotels and charming streets. Slightly grungy Feria, centred on the shabby-chic Calle Feria, has some of Seville’s most energetic nightlife (‘feria’ literally means ‘party’), plus vintage clothing boutiques, interesting shops, a famous flea market every Thursday and a fantastic local food market. It’s home to a creative community of artists, performers and artisans; make for Los Corralones on Calle Castellar for an assortment of studios, galleries, collectives and event spaces. Nearby, hip, slightly alternative Alameda is famed for the Alameda de Hercules, an old public garden (believed to be the oldest in Europe), transformed into a leisure area by day and ground zero for night life after dark. Packed with bars, live music venues, cafes and clubs , it features two Roman columns from a temple devoted to Hercules.You can’t miss it.
2. TAPAS BARS
There’s an exuberant sense of alegría de vivir (joy of living) in Spain, especially around the tables of Andalusia. Lunch is the main dining event, featuring local specialities like pescaíto frito (fried fish), pisto con huevo (a ratatouille-like stew with egg), raba de toro (stewed bull’s tail), salmorejo (a silky, rich cold tomato soup) and chipirones a la plancha (grilled squid). Eating tapas, a custom that developed in the south, is a more casual affair, where small portions of food are served with drinks. Tapas can be as simple as a plate of olives or the legendary jamón, or as complex as saucy braised pork cheeks or bacalao (salt cod) fritters. Many tapas can also be ordered as medias raciones (half plates) or raciones (full portions), with the point always being informal sharing – hopping from bar to bar, and elbowing your way to place an order, is the usual modus operandi. Eating and drinking is cheapest standing at counters; sitting at a table is more. Tapas are generally available between 1.00-4.00pm and 8.00pm-midnight, although some places serve right through. Look for traditional Seville dishes such as pringa (pork stew in hot sandwiches, originally a way to use leftovers), cazon en adobo (sand shark marinated, lightly battered, then deep fried), espinacas con garbanzos (a cooked mix of spinach and chickpeas shot through with cumin), zanahorías aliñadas (carrots marinated with garlic, cumin, smoked paprika and oregano) and solomillo al whisky (pork loin in whisky sauce). Best places? For old-time vibes, try Casa Morales (Calle García de Vinuesa, 11), Bar Las Theresas (Calle Sta Teresa, 2), Bodeguita Romero (Calle Harinas, 10), Bodega Salta Cruz (Calle Rodrigo Caro, 1A), Casa Antonio (Calle Previsión, 10) or the absolute GOAT and dating from the 17th century, El Rinconcillo (Calle Gerona, 40).
3. CHURCHES
Not a Catholic? Take in the grand architecture, art and atmosphere of Seville’s incredible churches and you might find yourself rethinking that; the trappings of Spanish Catholicism are lofty! Massive Cathedral of Saint Mary of the See, a.k.a. Seville Cathedral, is the fourth-biggest church in the world and the largest Gothic one – it’s on every tourist hit-list. Christopher Columbus is entombed here and the soaring interior, which includes 80 small chapels, is truely spectacular. The 12th century bell tower was the minaret of the mosque that once stood here; at around 105 metres high it offers breath taking views over the city. Be prepped for the climb! More modest in size but also stunning are the baroque San Luis De Los Franceses, Virgen de la Esperanza de Macarena, Basílica de Jesús del Gran Poder and the Iglesia Colegial del Divino Salvador – among these are some of the oldest churches in Europe. If you’re walking past a church with an open door- venture in. There might be a choir practising, an organist playing or just a contemplative corner in which to chill.
4. HOLY WEEK
Yes, more religion. Holy week, or Semana Santa de Sevilla, is one of Andalusia’s hugest festivals. Celebrated the week before Easter, it’s marked by flamboyant pasos (floats) depicting Mary or scenes of the Passion, forming slow processions through the city. Each church has a brotherhood that organises their paso, which they accompany dressed in robes and tall pointed hoods. Under each float (some of which are huge, over 300 years old and finished in blazes of gold or silver) and obscured by heavy drapes, some 40-odd men shoulder the considerable weight. Every detail of a paso (the expressions on Jesus’ face, the tears of the virgin, the minute details of each statue) have significance. Large brass bands accompany each, with imposing paraphernalia (huge candles and crucifixes) carried out front; groups set out from their home churches and return to them at the end. Some have routes that stretch for 14 hours! The whole city dresses to the nines and engages in either watching or directly taking part – there are even local apps devoted to itineraries, route maps and Semana Santa trivia. If you’re not in Seville for Holy Week, you might still luck into a procession as they pop up during the year around saint’s – and other – days in the religious calendar.
5. FRILLS, FLAMENCO, ACTION!
There’s a Spanish noun, duende, used to describe the passion that art (including flamenco) inspires and it’s difficult to describe. But once you experience flamenco up-close, with its raw, rhythmic singing, stirring guitar and mesmerising, improvised dancing (no two performances are the same), you get it. It’s emotional and intense! A flamenco performance is best enjoyed in small, casual settings so you can get all the feels, including spine shivers, goosebumps; the whole nine yards. Local experts recommend Casa de la Memoria (Calle Cuna, 6), Casa del Flamenco (Calle Ximénez de Enciso, 28), Casa de la Guitar (Calle Mesón del Moro, 12a), Museo del Baile Flamenco (Calle Manuel Rojas Marcos, 3) and Los Gallos (Plaza Santa Cruz, 11). If you’re lucky you’ll stumble across flamenco buskers in parks and plazas; often these are local professionals, raising a few extra quid or just practising. If you really want to ‘do’ flamenco, come during the famed April Fair when the entire city dresses in traditional garb and music and dance are everywhere.