By Leanne Kitchen

Go to Budapest, they said. You’ll love it, they said. So I did…and I did.

Budapest is a city with layers. And not just the kind you spot in its Baroque, Neo-Gothic, and Art Nouveau facades (although, wow), but the kind that blend a palpable sense of history with its modern charm. Yellow trams rattle down streets and traffic zips by at a fearsome pace (this is no place to jaywalk) – except on famous, pedestrianised Váci Utca in the heart of touristy downtown, that is. But despite the bustle, Budapest rewards you for slowing down and looking up at each building’s incredible details; there are architectural gems galore and they’re easy to miss. Even when it’s not trying to be beautiful Budapest absolutely is and around every corner waits an epic “OMG-look-at-that” moment. 

Pro Tip: Hungarian is considered one of the world's most difficult languages. Don't stress about learning it all—mastering "köszönöm" (thank you) and a smile will get you surprisingly far.

Escape the crowds

The Danube splits Budapest into two distinct personalities. There’s Buda, the hilly, green and serene part, and Pest, the lively and energetic younger one. Crossing the Chain Bridge is postcard-perfect, but look closer and you’ll notice how the city wears its scars—from bullet holes to blocky Soviet-era architecture—proudly.

For every subscribed tourist draw, there’s a tourist-free alternative. Yes, the Central Market Hall is stunning… but try the Rákóczi Market Hall instead. You’ll actually hear the locals bantering as they pick out paprika, size up the sausage selection, and fill plastic flagons with wine straight from wooden casks. Snack on a piping-hot lángos (like a deep-fried pizza slathered in garlicky sour cream and sprinkled with cheese) while here and you’ll enjoy it with the regulars; there’s not much English spoken but for my money, that’s part of the thrill. Walk around the places the tourist books don’t mention–looking at you Újlipótváros in the XIII district, with your block after block of gobsmacking Bauhaus-era modernist apartment buildings – and you’ll be blown away. The famous New York Café is truly beautiful but it’s overpriced as heck and about as authentic-feeling as a snow globe. Save your forints; there are a hundred more interesting spots to grab coffee. (For my money, the Metropolitan Ervin Szabó Library in the glorious 19th-century Wenckheim Palace gave me all the gilded-age feels for a fraction of the cost and hassle). And the Fisherman’s Bastion? Lovely, but draped with influencers even at 6am. Go to say you’ve been, but prepare for selfie sticks.

Pro Tip: Budapest's public transport is a dream so make sure to buy a multi-day travel pass. Those yellow trams and the zippy metro are your best friends, and you'll save a fortune compared to sporadic single tickets.

Echoes of History

In the Jewish Quarter, you’ll find more than just the grandeur of Dohány Street Synagogue (the second-largest synagogue in the world). This neighbourhood is a place of profound sorrow where the weeping willow Holocaust Memorial, the Ghetto Wall Fragment and occasional stumbling stones (tiny brass plaques embedded in the pavement to memorialise holocaust victims) are haunting tributes. But there’s lightness and life here too: vintage shops, vibrant street art, fun boutiques, galleries, and some amazing eateries.

The popular Ghetto Gulyás, for example, serves hearty bowls of goulash, chicken paprikash and other traditional delights in a buzzy bistro setting, while Bistro Macesz adds a modern twist to Jewish fare. Go for their cholent (a slow-cooked bean and grain Sabbath stew served with duck leg and pickles) and flódni, a pastry layered with poppy seeds, walnuts, and plum jam. Don’t miss Judapest, a quirky shop where Jewish-inspired homewares meet contemporary design— the perfect spot for a unique souvenir.

Cafés, Cakes, and Carbs

Forget going carb-free here –Hungarian baking is incredible and you don’t want to miss it. Start with the famous chimney cake (kürtőskalács), a spiralled yeasted pastry baked and caramelised over coals, best devoured warm and coated with cinnamon or nuts. For something savoury, there’s pogácsa, tiny, cheesy, scone-like pastries that pair beautifully with a strong coffee – try them at VAJ (which means ‘butter’), a chic bakery where the  túrós táska (a rich, flakey pastry filled with local farmer’s cheese and tangy apricot jam) are damn near a religious experience. I ate one here with ripper coffee four times in a week!

No trip is complete without a pilgrimage to Café Gerbeaud, where Dobos torte (caramel-glazed and multi-layered chocolate sponge cake) and the eponymous Gerbeaud Torte (a layered apricot jam and walnut pastry) reign supreme. Just across from Gerbeaud on Vörösmarty Square you’ll find the equally storied Szamos Marcipán Cukrászda, famed for marzipan creations and elegant cakes and biscuits. For a more neighbourhood feel, head to Arán Bakery for buttery croissants and other flaky wonders, or to David’s Kitchen, an artisanal deli run by a former fine dining chef who bakes a delicious white chocolate and poppyseed babka.

Over in Buda, the 200-year-old Ruszwurm Cukrászda is legendary for its cloud-like krémes (KRAY-mesh), a kind of ethereal vanilla custard slice with shatter-crisp pastry. Back in the downtown area, the glorious  Auguszt Cukrászda Belváros has serious heritage, a Belle-Époque feel, and displays packed with legendarily great cakes and other treats. These days there are a few branches of Auguszt, and the one in the Hungarian National Museum’s garden is pretty fab. 

Pro Tip: Budapest's coffee game is strong, complete with some of the best flat whites I’ve had anywhere. Seek out small, independent cafés for the real deal.

Art and Awe

The city’s museums are amazing, with the Museum of Fine Arts, the Hungarian National Museum, and the Hungarian National Gallery leading the pack. But don’t overlook the Ethnography Museum, where world-class displays bring Hungarian folk traditions to life in a stunning new building. Nor the Capa Center, celebrating the life and work of famed 20th-century conflict photographer Robert Capa; for history and photography buffs alike, it’s essential.

Art Nouveau lovers will swoon at the intimately scaled Ráth György Villa, while the celebrated Ludwig Museum of Contemporary Art, though slightly off the beaten track, showcases international heavyweights like Picasso, Warhol, Lichtenstein, and Jasper Johns. 

The sobering House of Terror on Andrássy Avenue, Budapest's most stunning boulevard, is another must-see. It delves into the horrors of Nazi and Communist oppression, complete with dungeons where prisoners like Raoul Wallenberg were held. It’s grim, yes, but utterly compelling for anyone interested in this dark chapter of history.

Budapest’s churches also demand attention, particularly St. Stephen’s Basilica. Instead of viewing it as just another architectural jewel on the tourist trail, consider going to Sunday Mass to experience it in action. The organ thunders, the choir soars, and the air is thick with incense fumes – you’ll get all the vibes!

Pro Tip: Those "free" walking tours? They're not actually free. The guides work on tips, so budget about 10-15 euros per person and pay them at the end. 

Dining Local

When it’s time to eat (again), head to Róma Ételbár on the Buda side for hearty Hungarian classics in a cosy, nostalgic setting. It’s the kind of neighbourhood spot where you’ll find locals enjoying dishes like pörkölt (a rich paprika-laden stew) and rakott krumpli (layered potatoes with sour cream, sausage, and eggs). For dessert, their túrógombóc—soft cottage cheese dumplings dusted with breadcrumbs and drizzled with sweetened sour cream—is not to be missed. Afterward, I recommend a wander to Bambi Eszpresszó, a nearby time-warped coffee spot with original Communist-era decor.

For a fast, no-frills foodie experience, Belvárosi Disznótoros in Pest delivers; there are two downtown outlets. These cafeteria-style eateries serve hearty Hungarian staples from bain-maries and they’re a carnivore’s dream, with options like hurka (blood or liver sausage), fried meats, and savanyúság (tangy pickles) to round things out. FYI, ‘disznótoros’ references both a type of pork sausage and the feast that takes place after a traditional pig slaughter; all parts of the animal are eaten and celebrated in Hungary. Another pork-lover’s paradise is Buja Disznók. Their specialty, beuschel (sour lung stew with bread dumplings), is a standout if you’re adventurous, although they also serve crowd-pleasers like schnitzel and particularly yummy sausages.

For something more classic, Menza Étterem near Liszt Ferenc Square fries pork schnitzel to crisp perfection, and their mákos guba—a baked dessert featuring poppy seeds and soaked bread—is the sweet ending you didn’t know you needed. Wash it all down with a glass of their fruit sodas or a Stari cherry beer. Sure, locals joke this is a girl’s drink, but who cares? It’s fruity, tart, and delicious.

For a truly local experience, seek out the étkezdes— these are simple, family-run diners that offer a taste of real Hungarian home cooking and they’re a disappearing tradition. Kívánság Étkezde, a relic from 1985, is as good a place as any to sit among locals, soak in the unpretentious atmosphere, and enjoy a meal that feels like a warm hug from Hungary itself.

Sparkling Nights and Soothing Soaks

Budapest shines brightest at night. The Parliament Building, illuminated in golden light, is nothing short of breathtaking.—its glow feels almost unreal. One of the best ways to experience it is from the rooftop pool at Rudas Baths, where you can soak as the river sparkles below. Not that I managed this because here’s the thing: Budapest is also the city of ‘almosts’ and ‘I misseds’.

So yeah; full disclosure. I never actually got to any of the world-famed thermal spas. Such a bummer. And, I also missed the famous Ruin Bars—those eclectic drinking spots in dilapidated buildings that are especially concentrated in the Jewish Quarter. The most famous is Szimpla Kert and from what I hear, you really have to go. Oops. I almost made it to buzzing Bartók Béla Boulevard, with its hip eateries and galleries... then ran out of time. And I was gutted to find the Agriculture Museum, housed in the fantastical Vajdahunyad Castle in beautiful City Park, closed when I visited. Dang.

Because seven days? Pffft. Just a teaser. I've left this city with a notebook half-filled, a stomach that yearns for just another slice of fruity rétes (strudel), and an absolute certainty of one thing: Budapest isn't done with me yet. Not by a long shot.

Let’s go traveling…