Pocha: Simple Korean Food from the Streets of Seoul
Quadrille, London, 2024 RRP $60
By Su Scott
If you’ve never thought much about travelling to Seoul, reading Pocha just might change your mind. We got as far as the contents pages and thought “dammit; take us to this place!” The book takes its inspo, and title, from pojangmacha, or ‘pocha’ for short. A pocha is a small, tarpaulin-covered cart, selling modest snacks and street food. “The term pocha, “ author Su Scott explains, “has grown beyond this literal translation to convey a part of Korean food culture, and there are many theories behind its origins. Some believe it originated from Japanese food carts that operated on Korean roadsides during the Japanese occupation of the early 20th century. Others suggest it is rooted in the ancient tradition of Korean pedlars selling small goods and food. However, the most likely origin of what we now recognise as pojangmacha are the simple handcarts of the 1950s, shielded by a thick cotton cloth, that could be seen on so many streets, serving noodles, soju by the glass and simple snacks such as grilled sparrow (which remained common until the 1960s).” Fascinating, huh? And this is the first ever cookbook in English on Korean pocha culture.
Pocha food is casual, comforting and relaxed, and the recipes in the book reflect that vibe. They’re mostly homey, rustic, and not difficult to cook, Scott assures, and are, excitingly, designed to be enjoyed with soju. The book kicks off with a helpful glossary of ingredients and a few words about how nothing used is overly exclusive or expensive, which is nice to know. And how the recipes can be made in any kitchen because the author’s own is a tiny shoe-box set up. To get you in the mood, there’s a ton of evocative photography of Seoul and the city just looks incredible; misty cityscapes… gritty, neon-lit streets… steaming food carts… happy diners perching on plastic stools eating in dim-lit alleyways… For us, this is the stuff of food adventures just waiting to happen; the book captures so well the beating heart of Seoul’s food scene.
The recipes in Pocha aren’t really locked into any particular mealtime; just like a visit to a street food cart, the vibe is delightfully lose. The first chapter, called All Day Dining, contains recipes for lightish-snacky things. Such as versions of juk (porridge), toasts and sandwiches (potato salad sandwich; yum!), kimchi dumplings, fried tteokbokki (rice cakes) and corn dogs. ‘Market Lunch’ is the next chapter and it’s stuffed full of recipes for dishes served over rice, with a few enticing pickle and salad recipes at the end. You’d probably head here for a dinner recipe; Spicy Tuna Mayo Bowl (featuring canned tuna), Lamb Yuni Jajang Sauce with Rice, a variation on the classic, dark bean sauce dish made with chunking paste, and Spicy Stir-Fried Squid Deopbap (stir-fried squid laced with gochujang, ginger, sugar, soy et al), Turmeric Pickled Radish and Stuffed Cucumber Kimchi are a few of these. ‘4 a.m. Slump’ is a chapter aptly filled with recipes for pick-me-up morsels (Candied Sweet Potato, Honey Cookies, Matcha Affogato etc), while Feasting Under The Stars is an extensive chapter that celebrates Seoul at night. It has an eclectic mix of recipes – Volcano Egg, Pan-Fried Skate and Wasabi Butter Sauce, Potato, Chive and Gruyere Pancakes and an epic Braised Ham Hock, for example. There’s lots here we’ve earmarked to make, starting with Gochujang Pork Taco and Stir Fried Buttered Kimchi Udon. There’s a Hangover Cure Soup too which is good to know, as the final chapter , called Nightcap, features killer drinks.
Who is this book for? Obviously anyone who loves Korean food, and is looking for a different take on it. But it’s also for occasional Asian cooks, who will be enticed by the big flavours and how achievable the majority of the recipes are. We see a ton of cookbooks land across our desk but we are fighting over our review copy of Pocha; it’s ever such a keeper.
