“Sweet spices in a ragù are typical of northern Italian cooking, and they are surprisingly perfect with meats like lamb, beef and game. The star anise and cinnamon lend sweetness and depth, while the tomato, red wine and rosemary bring this back to more recognisable territory…

Pork was such a treat for our family when we were young, as we grew up on a sheep farm and were more used to lamb and mutton. Pickled pork was especially beloved and would always feature on our Christmas table, so I’ve always been fond of the flavour…