“Sweet spices in a ragù are typical of northern Italian cooking, and they are surprisingly perfect with meats like lamb, beef and game. The star anise and cinnamon lend sweetness and depth, while the tomato, red wine and rosemary bring this back to more recognisable territory…

This recipe was an essential part of my growing up and has been handed down through generations, so I really felt that it was essential to include it. Brawn was considered a real treat when my mother made it after my father killed a pig. Traditionally we had it sliced on toast with Worcestershire sauce for breakfast…