“We will never forget the first time we landed in Dali in Yunnan Province. The doors of the aeroplane opened and we were greeted by a vista of wonderful open spaces and clean, fresh air - such a welcome relief after spending time in China's hectic and relentless cities. We ate a version of this simple dish at one of the many restaurants dotted around the incredibly beautiful Erhai Lake.”

We love the old-world, gruff charm of Kao Rou Ji restaurant in Beijing’s Houhai precinct. This gorgeous area is right on the lake and although it has been hijacked somewhat by souvenir shops and pizza joints, it still speaks of a time when life was a little less polished and a lot less Westernised. The dining room is filled with the smells of cumin and lamb and barbecued meat and this dish reminds us of being there…