“We love the old-world, gruff charm of Kao Rou Ji restaurant in Beijing’s Houhai precinct. This gorgeous area is right on the lake and although it has been hijacked somewhat by souvenir shops and pizza joints, it still speaks of a time when life was a little less polished and a lot less Westernised. The dining room is filled with the smells of cumin and lamb and barbecued meat and this dish reminds us of being there.”

SERVES 4-6

700g boneless lamb leg, trimmed of excess fat

2 tbsp cornflour

1 tsp cumin seeds

1 tbsp dark soy sauce

60 ml (¼ cup) clear rice wine

2 leeks, white part only

80 ml (⅓ cup) vegetable oil

3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed

2 cm piece ginger, peeled and finely shredded

2 tsp sugar

1 tbsp light soy sauce

1½ tbsp black rice vinegar

1 bunch coriander, leaves and stems coarsely chopped

Using a sharp knife, cut the lamb across the grain into very thin slices. Place in a large bowl with the cornflour, cumin seeds, dark soy sauce and 2 tablespoons of the rice wine. Use your hands to gently toss everything together, then cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours. Bring back to room temperature before cooking.

Cut the leeks in half lengthwise and wash well, then cut the halves on the diagonal into thin strips. Heat half of the oil in a large wok over a medium–high heat, then add the leeks and garlic and cook, stirring constantly so the leeks don’t turn brown, for 2–3 minutes, or until softened slightly. Remove to a bowl. Add the remaining oil to the wok and increase the heat to high, then add the lamb, using kitchen tongs to open the slices out so they cook evenly (as best as you can). Cook the lamb, stirring often, for 2–3 minutes, or until all the slices have changed colour. Add the remaining ingredients (reserving a handful of coriander leaves), the leeks and the remaining rice wine and cook, stirring, for about 2 minutes, or until well combined and heated through. Divide among bowls, scatter over the reserved coriander and serve with rice or bread (Shaobing).

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