Aloo bhortas (spiced potato mash)
“When it comes to bhorta, aloo, or potato, is at the top of most people’s lists. It’s one of the tastiest and most versatile versions of this mashed dish, and is an essential feature on the Bangladeshi culinary map. Best of all, it can be made by anyone, irrespective of budget or ability. The potatoes are either baked or boiled, then mixed with smoky fried chillies, onions and salt. A good drizzle of pungent mustard oil and a scattering of fresh coriander (cilantro) completely enlivens the blank canvas of soft potatoes and creates a magical dish. Mash a portion with plain rice and enjoy a classic Bangladeshi carb-on-carb delight. In place of mustard oil, you can use vegetable oil and a teaspoon of English mustard.”
SERVES 4
600g potatoes, peeled and quartered
2 tbsp vegetable oil
4 dried red chillies
1 red onion, finely sliced
½ tsp salt, plus extra to taste
a few fresh coriander sprigs, chopped
1 tbsp mustard oil, plus extra for drizzling
Place the potatoes in a pan of cold water and bring to a boil over a high heat. Boil for 10 minutes, or until a fork can be inserted easily into a piece of potato. Drain and briefly run under cold water to help the potatoes cool.
While the potatoes are cooling, heat the vegetable oil in a frying pan over a medium–high heat. After around 30 seconds, when the oil is hot, add the dried chillies and fry for a couple of minutes, or until almost black. Take the pan off the heat and transfer the chillies to a plate. Place the pan back on the heat and add the onion and salt to the oil still in the pan. Sauté for 2–3 minutes, until the onion is soft and translucent, then take the pan off the heat and set aside.
Using either your fingers or a pestle and mortar, crush the fried chillies (if you do this by hand, you can wear gloves to avoid the chilli heat transferring to your skin). Transfer to a bowl, along with the potatoes and the sautéed onions. Mash everything together using your hands or a potato masher. Stir in the coriander and mustard oil and taste for seasoning, adding more salt, if needed (it’s best to taste as you go).
Transfer to a serving dish and drizzle with a little more mustard oil to serve.
This is an edited extract from Made in Bangladesh by Dina Begum, published by Hardie Grant Books. Available in stores nationally, RRP $60.00 NZD. Photography by Haarala Hamilton and Habibul Haque.